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Old 06-22-2012, 12:11 PM   #21
RichieC
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You axed...

I call mine , my "Backcountry Digit Remover", but have so far avoided using one for that. But when I call it that, it reminds me what not to do with it!

Mine is nothing really fancy, an Eastwing all metal, with leather handle... IN it's sheath, when tied to a light rope, it makes for an accurate bear bag rope thrower.

I sharpen mine like a knife, with the same tools I sharpen my knife with, albeit at a slightly shallower angle, so it sticks and does not glance. I get comments when people borrow it "Man that's sharp!" . But it doesn't do anything surprising. Like a knife, a sharp edge is a safe edge.

May your axe never affect your ciphering or dancing.
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Old 06-22-2012, 11:50 PM   #22
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I believe Snow & Neally call their little 2 1/2 lb 24" handle a boys axe, but I also call mine a canoe axe. Fortunes Hardwear in Tupper Lake down in the Faust section of town has them, inexpensive too. My real axe I bought in 1969 when I was at Paul Smiths, a 4 lb double bit that I won the Axe Throwing event at the Woodsmans meet at U Maine with. A guy from U Maine had won the axe throw the previous 3 years, I had all bullseyes , he missed by 1/2" on his last throw. That axe is in my basement today, still take it out and use it on occasion. And as Smittys students we could shave the hair on your arm with out axes. I should see If I can scan a couple of pictures from back in the day with that axe.

John M. A Connecticut Yankee
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Old 06-23-2012, 11:40 AM   #23
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The Hudson Bay I have is a great backpacking ax. It is light to carry and when I go to the woods it always comes with me. Snow&Neally have a web site which has a search engine within itself that will allow you to find suppliers. I think I shelled out close to seventy dollars for the Hudson Bay model.
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Old 06-23-2012, 11:59 AM   #24
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I like a Wetterlings axe.
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Old 06-23-2012, 12:57 PM   #25
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I'm a fan of the Gransfors Bruks.
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Old 06-23-2012, 02:52 PM   #26
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The Wetterlings axe I have is nineteen inches an weights two lbs, I've used it for years.
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Old 06-23-2012, 09:57 PM   #27
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I've been thinking about the Wetterlings, I like it a lot. I am also thinking about the Wyoming saw. I've been using there knives for years and love them. I have two older axe heads one that's like a shingle hatchet with a hammer and one that's plain jane. Both could be made into handy additions to my already large day pack :-).

Wyoming saw might be the way I go due to its light weight and dual purpose.

What do you guys think???
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Old 06-24-2012, 05:48 AM   #28
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I have the Wyoming saw an used it for years until I saw an used the Wetterling.Weight wise they are the same.
The Axe I have used for clearing trail. Keep it sharp an it makes short work of it.
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Old 06-26-2012, 01:32 PM   #29
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I'm with RichieC - Estwing.
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Old 06-26-2012, 03:38 PM   #30
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I second the Gransfor Bruks Small Forest Axe. Small versitale and great for carving.
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Old 07-11-2012, 12:26 PM   #31
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Big Spruce-The Wetterlings and Gränsfors appear to be very similar. I have no personal experience with Wetterlings, but own two Gränsfors axes (Scandinavian Forest Axe and Large Splitting Maul) and am very happy with both. Since you mention carrying them in a large day pack, I would look at something hatchet size. I carry my Scandinavian Forest Axe with me at times, but it is fairly long so I consider it somewhat of a luxury to bring in a pack (Canoe or car camping is no problem). As Otter Laker mentioned, my Forest Axe is sharp enough to whittle with yet it still chops well.

You haven't really mentioned what you plan on using this axe for. It is primarily to gather firewood at a base camp or to carry as a survival tool?

Several times per year, I hunt in a backcountry type setting, off trail and fairly far from my vehicle. I carry a large fanny pack and am considering purchasing something like the Gränsfors mini-hatchet to carry. I feel that if I ever encounter a true survival situation, I will want an axe because it will likely be dark already and possibly very cold and I will want to build a hasty shelter and gather a lot of firewood relatively quickly. I would prefer to do this with a hatchet instead of a saw as the hatchet is faster and you can also split wood with it and carve your fuzz sticks to get your fire going using one tool. The large survival knives hold no appeal for me-Why would I want to chop anything with a knife and then have to build a baton to split wood with it when a hatchet does each job better, faster and safer. I'm sure others will disagree with this. Field and Stream carried an article a couple of years ago about an Alaskan trapper "The Ultimate Survivor". They had some tips in the article from the Alaskan Trappers Association, one of which was "If you can carry only one tool with you, make it an axe."
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Old 07-12-2012, 09:01 PM   #32
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Since Gränsfors and Wetterlings are both Swedish companies, does anyone have a recommendation for an axe made in the USA? I seemed to find a lot of complaints about the quality of Snow & Neally axes. Should they be avoided, or is it just a few squeaky wheels posting online?
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Old 07-12-2012, 10:42 PM   #33
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Estwing had two votes above and was recommended in the article I mentioned from Field and Stream. I'm not sure where the Vaughan axes are made but my Vaughan hammer is US. I believe the Gerber axes are now made in Taiwan and the Fiskars are made in Finland. I have a friend who has a Gerber and I'm not a fan of his axe.
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Old 07-13-2012, 09:49 PM   #34
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Sorry guys have been away for a bit, was up in Maine for a week, then home wrapping up work stuff.

My biggest need for a solid Ax is for general woods work while hunting/fishing. I like to make blinds and remove limbs. I have a small folding saw just never been crazy about it. I am also considering it for quartering work if need be.

Second use is survival / over night stays if the need arises. Weight is only a minor concern. I am still looking for the perfect day pack which by the way doesn't exist and the one I use by Lowe Alpine has an ice ax loop which works well to carry a small woods ax.

Right now I am leaning towards a Wyoming saw and an Ax.

Bob
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Old 07-15-2012, 10:00 AM   #35
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You can turn any axe into a decent axe by shapping and sharpening the blade properly. Use a file to shape the blade then use a stone to put an edge. A properly sharpened axe will cut into the wood with little effort and will not get stuck in the wood. The worst thing you can do to an axe is to sharppen it on an electric grinding wheel because the heat generated will ruin the tempering of the steel. After my Council fire axe broke at the Ranger School i bought a cheap hardware store "boy" axe and have been using it for almost 10 years now
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Old 07-21-2012, 06:00 PM   #36
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I've been doing more research on US made axes, and stumbled upon a discussion on a knife forum. It seems that the Snow & Nealley heads have been made in China for a while and assembly with US made handles has been in Maine. As of March 2012, Snow & Nealley has new ownership, who is moving the S&N facilities to Smyrna, Maine. There is no word on bringing production of the heads back to the US.
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Last edited by Kyler; 07-21-2012 at 06:12 PM..
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Old 07-21-2012, 06:09 PM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kyler View Post
I've been doing more research on US made axes, and stumbled upon a discussion on a knife forum. It seems that the Snow & Nealley heads have been made in China for a while and assembly with US made handles has been in Maine. As of March 2012, Snow & Nealley has new ownership, who is moving the S&N facilities to Smyrna, Maine. There is no word on bring production of the heads back to the US.
Kyler, thanks for the info on S&N axes, wasn,t sure why their web page was not up. Too bad about the heads being produced outside of Maine though.
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Old 07-21-2012, 06:21 PM   #38
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Council Tool's high-end Velvicut line gets good reviews, as does Best Made Co, whose heads are made by Council Tool. Council Tool does their manufacturing in North Carolina.
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Old 07-22-2012, 12:00 PM   #39
Roy Wires
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LL Bean Hudson Bay Axe
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