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Old 12-04-2021, 12:57 PM   #21
BillyGr
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Originally Posted by stripperguy View Post
A quick note about some of these tools.
That Grizzly band saw was $225 brand new in 1984, it's not a Delta, but it sure does all that I need it to.
The belt/disk sander was $100 used, it's an old Black & Decker industrial, bulletproof. 6 x 48 belts, 12" disk, heavy cast iron parts, runs silky smooth.
The Delta shaper was $80 used, got it cheap because it didn't know the lyrics, it just hummed. A $5 start capacitor later, it ran great.
The Delta drill press is a 1940's industrial machine with a 3 phase motor and a $100 digital phase converter, another workhorse.
The Rockwell thickness planer is a beast, I forget the model number, but it's the one everyone looks for. I paid a premium for that, from the original owner, a cabinet maker. $400, ouch!
And lastly, there's that Grizzly dust collector. I got that for $100, from a guy that thought he could run it on 110 VAC, it's 220 VAC only. That dust collector really does a great job, couldn't use the belt/dick sander without it.
The WHAT sander, now
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Old 12-04-2021, 05:22 PM   #22
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The WHAT sander, now
Hahaha...I must have proofed my text 4 times and still missed my Freudian slip. Even now, I had to read and reread to catch your inference. At least I know SOMEBODY is reading my stuff. Too funny to edit it now!
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Old 12-04-2021, 08:00 PM   #23
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That's quite a good list of tool purchase prices, good for you. I bought most of mine secondhand too, but I have bought a few new when I couldn't find them used. My best used buys are ShopSmiths. I have bought two so far and in each case I was able to sell the accessories I didn't want for more than I paid for the whole package. On the other extreme I paid $600 for a ring roller for making banjo parts because I never saw one for sale used. It's paid for itself many times over, since it saves having to buy expensive parts, but it felt like a lot to pay up front for something I'd never actually tried out.
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Old 12-04-2021, 09:03 PM   #24
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Zach,
My almost BIL kept his Shopsmith in my boat shop at the other house for years and years. I found some of the functions useful, but after a lifetime of using all manner of machine tools in industry, I was (still am, I suppose) spoiled by the single use industrial tools. If you look in the background of some of my older build threads, you'll probably spy that Shopsmith tucked against the side wall.
The Shopsmith's, I guess, are great if you plan your work in just the right sequence, to avoid spending too much time swapping configurations. Or if you're limited in space, and budget too.
Like I said, I'm completely spoiled by having so much quality tooling at my disposal while I was still working.


And I just looked, I had another post showing the latest step of cutting all the 1/2" radius roundovers. Hmmm, I could swear I posted it...

Anyway, here's the latest pics, minus all the descriptions.





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Old 12-04-2021, 10:45 PM   #25
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Very nice roundover work. Is it hard to keep the wood moving fast enough to keep it from burning, or do you turn the router or shaper speed down low enough to avoid that? I have not done much routing in softwoods, so I wonder if maybe it's less of an issue with them.

I only use the Shopsmith for the 12" disc sander (I like the variable speed for that) and for horizontal drilling and lathe turning. In the long run I hope to have room someday for a real lathe, but I would still keep the Shopsmith for the other two functions as I use them a lot.
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Old 12-05-2021, 10:46 AM   #26
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Zach,
I initially used an old high speed steel router bit, it was slow cutting, noisy and did definitely tend to burn. No matter how hard I tried, I couldn’t move the workpieces fast enough on the cross grain cuts to avoid burning. After doing 3 or 4 of the paddles, I borrowed a sharp, carbide tipped bit from my SIL. The cuts went about 10 times faster and no burning at all, and as an added benefit, it was much quieter.
Newer router bits are now on my Christmas list!
I didn’t go into detail, but the round over cuts were made in two planes, to work around the angled portion of the shafts. I also had to hand blend the start and stop of the cuts in a couple spots, to maintain flat surfaces to attach the lads strips.
I’m currently undecided on whether to add an epoxy thickened fillet at the shaft/blade intersect, or add in a sliver of pre-coved wood for that transition.
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Old 12-09-2021, 10:04 PM   #27
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I've been distracted the last few days tying up another loose end on the new house... $200 in materials vs $1,200 and a 12 week wait. Almost done, so I can get back to the paddles. A quick note for those of you that inspect the photos for details, yes, those are my skis in the background, I'm skiing tomorrow in VT.



I think I mentioned that I plan a subdued sunburst pattern on the blades? Yeah, I did. I have a bunch of scrap strips that my son donated, not sure if there will be enough of them, but at least I can get my tooling and approach sorted out.

It can be tricky and time consuming to cut tapered strips one at a time. When I was still working, I would just clamp a bunch of strips together, maybe 20 at a time, and throw them in the milling machine, and fly cut them all at once. Since that is no longer an option, I slapped together another quick and dirty jig to cut the tapers on the individual strips.



On the underside of that 3/4" hardwood ply, I have a 3/4" wide strip screwed in place to fit my table saw miter slot. And on top of that plywood, you see a very, very thin strip (one of the scrap strips, can you guess why it was scrap?) glued and pin nailed in place to provide the taper. A 20" strip will be tapered from 3/4" wide to 1/2" wide. Since there's precious little safe finger space to hold the strip in place, I use those rubber faced pusher blocks. Since the guide strip is so thin, I can easily hold the strip to be cut in place with the pusher blocks. Also, I had to add that block at the back end, so I had something to hang onto for sliding the jig back towards me after the cut is done.

After all my babbling, I'll just say that it takes me less than 20 seconds per cycle to cut the tapers, good enough for now.

Lastly, here's a few of those tapered strips, laid in place along one of the shafts. Keep in mind, once the edges are trimmed, the sunburst pattern will be more noticeable, but, hopefully, not obtrusive.

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Old 12-10-2021, 10:09 AM   #28
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The fireplace surround looks nice, what will you be capping it off with?

I find the most challenging part of a project like that is getting the reveals and proportions right. I suppose there are some design rules for that, but copying something that looks good to me works too.
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Old 12-10-2021, 01:45 PM   #29
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Gene,
The space between the surround and the firebox will be some sort of ledge stone, it’s been in the basement since before we finished our kitchen. Surround itself will be painted white.
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Old 12-10-2021, 04:50 PM   #30
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Gene,
The surround will be painted white, space between surround and firebox will be white/black/gray ledgestone, she had that picked out even before we pinned down our kitchen cabinets.
As for the various setbacks, reveals and such, I had previously built some sample sections with like 6 different crown moulding, bed moulding, quarter rounds, etc. I’ve learned long ago to keep her informed with real parts, not everyone has the same spatial visualization skills.
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Old 12-16-2021, 10:45 PM   #31
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Update without the babbling, in order:
Shaper fixture to recut coves on reclaimd cove and bead strips.
Improved table saw taper fixture, needed more strips.
Gluing strips to shaft to make the blades.
Finished and installed mantle, baseboard trim will wrap around mantle legs, maybe tomorrow.







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Old 12-17-2021, 10:58 PM   #32
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The paddles and fireplace are all looking good. I didn't realize you put a bead and cove on paddle strips too. I had always thought bead and cove was to enable them to be out of plane with adjacent strips without leaving a gap, but I can see they'd make tighter blades too because of the increased glue area. I've only ever made double paddles with curved blades, so it's interesting to watch the process for your paddles and learn how it's done.
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Old 12-18-2021, 09:56 AM   #33
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Zach,
The cove and bead are only there since Josh had a bunch left over.
Rather than have them go to waste, I recut them to use with these paddles.
Thereís not very many of them, but it was a fun exercise to build the shaper fixture for them.
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Old 12-20-2021, 08:17 AM   #34
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Stripperguy,
That taper jig is a big improvement over the Craftsman version I have- and avoid using because I think it's dangerous.

If wanted to you could add a little stop block on the plywood surface. Might be helpful when you're making several cuts.
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Old 12-21-2021, 09:41 PM   #35
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Gene,
No block on the plywood since I had varying lengths of strips. Instead, I aligned every strip from the lead edge. The cam action clamps were an enormous improvement in ease of use and safety.

Fireplace is done, this photo shows it almost finished, save for two pieces of baseboard trim and a few dabs of paint.

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Old 12-22-2021, 09:56 AM   #36
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Very nice job. The stone/tile compliments it well.
enjoy it this Christmas!
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Old 01-09-2022, 03:22 PM   #37
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Let's see...where did I leave off? Oh, yeah, I had just glued all the strips on the blades.
Well, since then, I trimmed the blade edges, and epoxied on the phenolic tips, added Cabosil thickened epoxy fillets where the blades meet the shaft, and finish sanded the blades and most of the shafts.
I decided to use 2 oz E-glass on the blades, and I'll wrap the edges when I glass the first side, cleaning everything up just before glassing the second side.

I plan to finish sand the upper parts of the shafts after I glass the blades, the glass will extend slightly up the shafts to cover the scarf joist. That way I will blend that glass in as I finish sand the rest of the shafts. At the moment, I'm waiting for the glass to come in from Sweet Composites, and more epoxy resin from RAKA.

Here's a look at one of the paddles, just waiting to be glassed.

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Old 01-10-2022, 02:19 PM   #38
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I've been wondering how the paddles were coming and if you'd had any time to work on them during the holidays. That one looks very nice, and it looks like you got the last of the baseboard completed too. Is the 2 oz glass harder to work with, being so thin and light? I've only ever used 4 and 6 oz cloth.
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Old 01-11-2022, 03:36 PM   #39
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Zach,
I glassed two paddles yesterday top side only, using the 2 oz E-glass from Sweet Composites.
It was very easy to work with and wet out quickly.
As I had hoped, it was flexible enough to wrap onto the second side a bit, so the edges will be protected.
Today, I blended that wrapped glass on the power face, and laminated the power face only on those first two paddles.
So far so good, Iíll wait a few days to see how it all looks before I do the others.
I have more pics, but canít post them from the car while Iím waiting for the kids at school

OK, here's one of the paddles that I did yesterday, top side only. You can't tell from this photo, but the 2 oz glass is wrapped around the edges to the power face.



Getting ready to glass the second side



Second side done on both 54" paddles


Last edited by stripperguy; 01-11-2022 at 07:53 PM..
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Old 01-12-2022, 09:27 PM   #40
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Here's the cleaned up power face...



As I mentioned, the 2 oz glass wrapped nicely around the edges. Here's a look at an edge, not the best photo, but take my word for it, the edges are well protected.




So these two 52" paddles are essentially complete, I need only to finish sand the shafts and grips, and varnish everything. Hopefully, whatever I add in varnish weight will be the same as the weight I remove in final sanding.
Paddles currently weigh 17 oz each.
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