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Old 03-16-2017, 07:01 PM   #21
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Panther Gorge gets a WI5- & 3+ on March 10: Ride the Lightning & Skip the Lightning. Trip #32 above.
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Old 06-23-2017, 08:08 PM   #22
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Added "Slacker Cracker" on a newly opened wall--the Chimney Wall. This cliff hosts a large chimney with a vertical trap dike.
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Old 07-06-2017, 08:02 PM   #23
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Added Marcy's Great Chimney (aka Empty Tomb) & All Ryled Up on the Chimney Wall on June 15. The Chimney is a vertical basaltic trap dike.

2017 August update: Dave Jackson contacted us and claimed 1st ascent of the chimney proper in September of 1978! A new bit of history!

http://www.adirondackalmanack.com/20...trap-dike.html
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Old 08-31-2017, 07:46 PM   #24
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Added Anorthofright to Marcy's East Face on August 27. It went at 5.9- / 710'

http://www.summitpost.org/panther-go...ht-5-9/1005961
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Old 09-24-2017, 10:46 AM   #25
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Added Panther's Pinnacle to Marcy's Chimney Wall on September 16. It went at 5.9 / 250'

http://www.summitpost.org/panther-go...nnacle/1007725
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Old 02-12-2018, 09:23 PM   #26
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Added Spiritus Draconis (WI4+) to Marcy's Chimney Wall area on Feb. 1, 2018.
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Old 04-19-2018, 05:26 PM   #27
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Added John 3:16 (WI4) & PG-13 (WI4) to Mt. Haystack's V Wall on 2018 March 24. Time to take a break until June!

https://www.summitpost.org/panther-g...-pg-13/1017200
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Old 11-14-2018, 07:33 PM   #28
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I haven't posted an update in a while for various reasons. I figured I'd cover all of this summer's development at once.

All the Panther Gorge excitement this year was during June.
  1. Haystack (No Man's Land)-Paws Off (5.8) (w/Steven St. Pierre) 2018 June 9.
  2. Marcy (Agharta Wall)-Moonraker Runout (5.8+) (w/Ken Hebb) 2018 June 16.
  3. Marcy (Panther Den)-Castle Column (5.9) (w/Ken Hebb) 2018 June 17.

Adam Crofoot, Alan Wechsler, and I then added Free Soul (5.9 X) on Big Slide. The route should probably be rated XXX...

I know this isn't Panther Gorge, but the details are here for those interested: https://www.summitpost.org/soul-free...untain/1024275
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Old 01-13-2019, 03:20 PM   #29
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Finally got on an aesthetic line south of the big Marcy climbs and added Apex Predator on January 5th, 2019. ...and introduced a new friend to the Gorge.

https://www.summitpost.org/panther-g...-wi4-5/1028296
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Old 07-05-2019, 10:32 PM   #30
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New Routes

Development's slowing down a little, but we got a couple things done in June over 3 visits (1 was guiding up a 2014 route).
  • Haystack (Ramp Wall arete)-Lioness Rampant (top rope) (5.11d) (w/Allison Rooney) 2019 June 8.
  • Marcy (Feline Wall)-Cracks of My Tears (5.10a) (w/Loren Swears) 2019 June 28.

Links to these are in the main post.
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Old 08-22-2019, 07:09 AM   #31
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http://www.adirondackmountaineering....nthergorgebook

Some of my close friends have known that I've been working on a book for nearly half a decade. The end result, Panther Gorge, is 228 pages with over 170 color photographs and plates. Ten years of field work, historical research, writing, photography, and designing has finally paid off.

Panther Gorge contains an in-depth description of the primary features and general history back to the 1800's (including ADK pioneers like Colvin, Street, Goodwin, Hopkins, Phelps, and more). The second part of the book, the Chronicles, is comprised of narratives with photos taken during each trip between 2009 - 2018.

This is NOT a guidebook. It is a celebration of one of the Adirondack's most remote venues. At it's heart, its purpose is to document the Gorge's history and show the beauty of this magnificent area to those who cannot or will not venture to such a rugged, remote area--the original reason I started writing online trip reports back in 2004.

Many generous people have contributed to this project and I'm grateful beyond words to each. Thank you all! Panther Gorge would not be what it is without them.

All the glory goes to God for how this project fell together. Jesus Christ walked with me the whole way; whether I was solo or with friends.

My wife Deb proofread, advised, and supported me tirelessly over the years. Kristen Taylor patiently worked with me for over a year and took a collection of text and photos and created a professionally designed book. Don Mellor wrote an eloquent Foreward--it's an honor to begin the book in such a way. Tony Goodwin is the editor and did so with a mindset of leaving the flavor of my writing intact. Nolan Huther contributed the stunning drawings mixed in through the pages.

Many, many people selflessly contributed research time, advice, guidance, and/or personal knowledge to the project including Jim Lawyer, Emilie Drinkwater, Will Roth, John Sasso, Richard E. Tucker, Scott Vanlaer, and Professor of Geology Jeff Chiarenzelli to name a few.

This journey as a whole and each trip belongs to the tenacious explorers, climbers, and backcountry aficionados that accompanied me. Without them, this book would not exist. Each of the following people shared one or more trips, bled, crawled, and climbed with me. With many, I was the student. Listed in trip order, they are: Mark Lowell, Greg Kadlecik, Scott Vanlaer, Anthony Seidita, Adam Crofoot, Allison Rooney, Bill Schneider, Hunter Lombardi, Justin Thalheimer, Dan Plumley, Devin Farkas, Nolan Huther, Alan Wechsler, Dustin Ulrich, John Pikus, Loren Swears, Jaryn DeShane, Doug Ferguson, Walker Wolf Bockley, Matt Dobbs, Jace Mullen, Steven St. Steven St Pierre, Ken
Ken Hebb, Laura Duncan, Brent Elliott, and Aaron Courain.

Full details, a "look inside," and purchasing information are at the following link. http://www.adirondackmountaineering....nthergorgebook
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Old 01-04-2020, 02:04 PM   #32
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Added an interesting ice/mixed line on December 28, 2019. I've been after this for years. Thanks to Laura Duncan and Brent Elliott for helping it happen.

Waking Cerberus (WI5/M4) on Marcy's Panther Den. Used cams to 3", ice screws, and a spectre to get it done.
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Old 03-07-2020, 06:44 AM   #33
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We added a WI5/M5 line, Passion and Warfare, to Marcy on Feb 22. I'm still digesting this one after several unsuccessful attempts over 5 years.
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Old 06-09-2020, 05:01 PM   #34
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Added Luceo Non Uro on June 5. Nice day out with no blackflies and not much snow left.

https://www.summitpost.org/luceo-non...-gorge/1052251
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Old 06-09-2020, 06:21 PM   #35
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Nice write up and a really beautiful photo of Marcy at the end. Congratulations.
Do you ever find hikers debris in the gorge?
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Old 06-09-2020, 07:37 PM   #36
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Nice write up and a really beautiful photo of Marcy at the end. Congratulations.
Do you ever find hikers debris in the gorge?
Thanks.
No, most hikers say they're in PG when at the S end near the lean-to which is obviously true, but only a few people that I know of besides climbers go into it. The only debris I've seen in there thus far has been party balloons. We've pulled 2 out.
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Old 06-09-2020, 09:00 PM   #37
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Thanks.
No, most hikers say they're in PG when at the S end near the lean-to which is obviously true, but only a few people that I know of besides climbers go into it. The only debris I've seen in there thus far has been party balloons. We've pulled 2 out.
Thanks, I was just curious. I know stuff blows around.
When I lived in KV I recall finding b-day and car sale advertising balloons from Quebec and once when I hunted in Franklin Falls found a weather balloon from British Columbia.
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Old 07-01-2020, 08:07 AM   #38
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Added Practically Roadside June 26.

https://www.mountainproject.com/rout...cally-roadside

June 18th was spent hanging from a rope assessing a potential route on Haystack then on Marcy’s Panther Den for a route that I first surveyed on May 28. The Haystack line was in the North End on the Ramp Wall and scary even on top rope. Much of the route was comprised of large flakes that resounded like drums when tapped. It didn’t take long to rule that out. I knew that Marcy’s line would go, however. A few loose blocks were the only issue. I had a chance to try it in sections on top rope before exiting.

June 26th found Loren Swears with me to put the Marcy route up. With the usual 4 AM start, we arrived at the cliff at 8:10 AM and rappelled down the line. I still wanted to give it a run on top rope before leading it. The crux involved a small overhang with a finger crack that flared at the wrong place. I guessed it was a harder 5.10a or .10b move, but recent pain in my shoulder hindered me.

Loren belayed while I figured out another way to gain the crack (which is laid out in the route description above). Blue skies and gusty winds accompanied the hordes of blackflies and kept them at bay for the climber. The belayer needed a head net and patience. A spicy, slightly-overhanging move into a wide crack at the top took my mind off the flies below. All went well and we had the route up by 1:30. That left time to bushwhack down to the Agharta Wall.

We and our winged companions trekked south and scrambled up the third class slab to look at some other lines up close. The clouds continued to build and we made a relaxed exit from the Gorge at 3:30 PM. Neither of us knew what to do with such a short day; returning to our cars with daylight to spare is rare!

Route Line
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Old 07-11-2020, 07:38 PM   #39
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Tomcat on Haystack

Added Tomcat (5.8+ / 500') on July 4 with Steven St. Pierre. The route was named by Steven in memory of Tom Wright whose kind, genuine, adventurous soul lives on in the hearts of many Adirondack locals.


https://www.summitpost.org/tomcat-in...-gorge/1053016

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Old 07-22-2020, 04:11 PM   #40
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Added ANORTHOSITE OVERCAST (5.11a) on 2020 July 19.

Yup...the hottest day of the summer (95F in the valley) thus far was cool at elevation with heavy winds.

Sometimes it takes years to put finish a rock-climbing project; in this case it took 17 albeit with a decade-long Panther Gorge hiatis. Adam Crofoot and his partners at the time, Bill Schneider and Nic Gladd, spotted a hard aesthetic line on the prow of the Panther Den, the cliffs highest point, in 2003. The finger crack that breaks a roof remained on Adam’s mind as the years ticked by. Not only did it appear hard and technical, but it tends to be wet early in the season or after significant rainfall. Finally, in 2019, he began working on it on solo top rope. The journey ended with his lead on July 19, 2020. Anorthosite Overcast, a play on the Will Mayo route called Aluminum Overcast, came in at a burly 5.11a. Photo 1 is and updated route plate from the Panther Gorge book. The remainder are of Adam working the route on TR before the lead. It was an honor to be part of this project.

Photos: https://photos.app.goo.gl/7b1zNazkJaBWTYtr9

Below, Crofoot working the route on solo TR in June of 2019, a year before the FA.
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