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Old 02-16-2004, 12:27 PM   #1
NDT
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Question Panther Gorge

Has anyone ever rock climbed panther Gorge? Does anyone know about the climbing possibilites in there, and do any of the walls in there have names? I've looked in there several times and seen the huge faces but I can't seem to anyone who has climbed or even explored the gorge.
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Old 02-16-2004, 01:13 PM   #2
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Hi there, welcome to the forums.

I know Tom McGuire with the Albany Chapter of the ADK Club told me a story or three about Panther gorge when doing Skylight last month. If you know him or know someone who knows him, give 'em a call. I mentioned this site but he says he doesn't surf the internet too much and I haven't seen him around here, so your best bet is not through these forums to find him. Unfortunately this is true of a lot of experienced hikers I've met -- many are out there busy hiking and have families, live in the middle of nowhere, and/or don't use the internet much.
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Old 02-16-2004, 06:41 PM   #3
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umm, what are you talking about. I think you replied to the wrong post
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Old 02-16-2004, 06:48 PM   #4
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I've read somewhere about people climbing in there. I'll try to figure out which guidebook it was in, and post back on here later.
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Old 02-16-2004, 09:28 PM   #5
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The Keene Valley guide Jim Goodwin rock climbed in Panther Gorge some in the 1930s and later. Jim's son Tony Goodwin (tgoodwin@kvvi.net)probably knows more about it or could ask his father, who is still alive. I don't think many people climb in there today as it is hard to get to. Don Mellor's rock climbing guide to the Adks may mention the Gorge, not sure.
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Old 02-16-2004, 09:34 PM   #6
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No idea what tghis means other then people have climbed it!

MOUNT MARCY / PANTHER GORGE
AGHARTA

NEI 4 800 ft.

This comes recommended as a huge adventure with some very good climbing. The climb is easily seen from Haystack as the right-most route on the south facing wall on Marcy. The arduous approach begins thirty feet above the Marcy/Haystack trail junction. Bushwhack south for almost a mile, generally staying on contour (donÕt follow large bouldered streambed). Four long pitches.

FA Christian Fracchia and Charlie Dickens 12/20/99
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Old 02-16-2004, 10:42 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally posted by NDT
umm, what are you talking about. I think you replied to the wrong post
I was referring you to someone who may have the answer to your questions.

... and a note as to why it's still tough to get some forms of information on the net -- not everyone uses it...
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Old 02-16-2004, 11:34 PM   #8
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Taken from Don Mellor's Climbing in the Adirondacks :

Quote:
No place evokes intrigue like Panther Gorge. The name conjures up images of desolation, tangled blowdown, impenetrable forest, and boulders strewn in tumbled confusion. Tucked in between Marcy and Haystack, this wild place has long been the stuff from which stories are made and legends grow. No one can agree, however, whether the climbing here justifies the work. (AH, this should inspire a perverse few!) Climbers have approached by the long haul (over ten miles) from Elk Lake. They've also dropped into the ravine from the Range Trail between Marcy and Haystack. It is from Haystack that Panther Gorge looks most alluring. High, steep walls and slabs appear across the vastness of the ravine. Climbers who have been there, however, have come back with a different story. "Did we miss something? Were we lost? Was it worth it?" And then they think back to that view from Haystack, and in a year or two, the temptation and curiosity begin to take root again, and they talk about going back for another look.
From page 392 in the section on Remote Climbs in the High Peaks. I've never climbed there so I guess you can draw your own conclusions.

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Old 02-17-2004, 09:54 AM   #9
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I hate to say it but.....

Search VFTT. I read a thread on there re: Panther gorge. it appears that there is a climbable section or two, scrambling really, without the need of srious climbing gear. That is my recollection, Double check at vftt for yourself.

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Old 02-17-2004, 02:55 PM   #10
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The Agharta quote refers to an ice climb/mountaineer route on Mt Marcy. And it's no joke, four long pitches of grade 4 after that approach is non-trivial climbing.

The quote from Don's book is referring to the amptheater cliff on Basin that you can see from Haystack and just see from Sawteeth.

Last year some fellows posted a bushwacking trip to find this cliff on VFTT. I emailed with them and they were not rock climbers, just out for a little exploration. They sent me photos of the cliff and from the photos, there are some obvious natural lines that could be climbed (ie cracks). In profile, the cliff is steeper than the summit cliff on Big Slide. For reference, the rock routes that Ed Palen and Don Mellor have done on Big Slide are high end moderates, so, whatever is on Basin is bound to be harder. The cliff looks interesting and whoever climbs there will almost certainly be doing first ascents on the cliff. I'm not sure what the best approach would be, I guess it would be from between Haystack and Basin.

Last edited by strat; 02-17-2004 at 04:30 PM..
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Old 02-17-2004, 03:50 PM   #11
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Strat, you don't happen to have any copies of those photos would you? Would be nice to have them here (assuming the owners wouldn't mind)...
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Old 02-17-2004, 03:54 PM   #12
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The Ampitheater on Basin......

...sounded like an interesting corner of the Adirondacks I would like to see. If you need Basin, consider putting this on your trip, possibly camp near there.

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Old 02-17-2004, 05:11 PM   #13
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strat,

Ed Seguin and myself were the ones who made the climb to the amphitheater on Basin, which is on the other side of Haystack from Panther Gorge, which is where NDT is wondering about. As far as the best approach to Basin, we took the shortest bushwacking route, which meant heading due east from the Range trail at around the 4200 ft. elevation.From there, the GPS made it a .33 mile hike, that took us a good 45 minutes. It was a hell of a push through the brush, but worth it!
It really didn't look like anyone had ever been there, but who can be sure.
If any body wants, I can e-mail some pictures of the cliff.
Tom Hoffman
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Old 02-17-2004, 05:28 PM   #14
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Tom can you post the pic here so everyone can see it? IF not my e-mail is morrell12@yahoo.com

Thanks,
ADAM
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Old 02-17-2004, 06:08 PM   #15
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yeah those pictures would be great! now are they of the amphitheater on Basin or the walls in Panther Gorge.
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Old 02-18-2004, 01:01 AM   #16
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Tom - could you send me the pictures as well? My email is mtboy417@hotmail.com

Thanks!

peace,
Oysterhead
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Old 09-03-2014, 04:30 PM   #17
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Panther Gorge a Decade Later

I bumped into this thread; yes, it's been 10 years since there was a post to it. If anyone is still interested, here is a link to Panther Gorge on MountainProject. FYI, the area saw some route development in the late 2000's which placed the route total at 12. Anthony Seidita, Adam Crofoot and I have added another 6 routes (3 on the Haystack side and 3 on the Marcy side). I'll develop the mountain project page as I visit the area in coming years--my favourite haunt.

Panther Gorge on Mtn Project: http://www.mountainproject.com/v/panther-gorge/109235496
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