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Couple of us forummers met and along with a climbing buddy of mine and our faithful dogs, went out to the Waterfall Wall for a short ice climb.
Here's the Short Tale.
Here's the Short Tale.
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It was nice to finally meet you Jay (Robin, and Forest). I hope we can connect sometime soon on some rock climbing.
I'm still trying to find time to work on my Crane Mt photos. I'll be sure to post them when I can. It was a heck of a time getting up/down that last ladder with .5" of ice on it.
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Nice report Jay! I got the email sorry I couldn't make it. I definitely am still interested in getting out sometime before the winter is over. Looks like you guys had a good time. I still have to get leashes for my tools, but other than that, I think I'm good for some milder stuff.
Kevin, If your referring to some gym rock climbing, and are looking for some company let me know. I'm pretty close to electric city, or would even be willing to check out AIR. I haven't been there in a long time.Comment
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Hey guys,
The winter has been OK. I've only climbed the Waterfall Wall (several times) and that Huckleberry thing (probably 1+); I wanted to get out to Chouinard's Gully at least once but so far no go. Wanted to do Trap Dike, but haven't; N.Face Gothics but haven't. I"m scheduled to do Pharaoh but may have to cancel as work might intrude. Ugh.
Have a good time at the gym...traverse a lot, it's the best exercise. FYI, I'm at the Rocksport Gym in Queensbury every Monday night; I know that's a long run for a small wall, but if you happen to be up this way on a Monday, it's cheap and gives a good workout.Comment
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We prefer the wall in Schenectady. Seem like a good bunch of climbers at both of our local rock gyms (Albany, Schenectady), so I think the quality of the facility's walls is the only major difference. Schenectady doesn't have a cave, but I'm not interested in caving. But they do have a very tall wall.
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My Crane Mountain hike, done while Jay was leading this trip, was a pretty important lesson for me and I'm going to add my TR for it here.
I solo'd the hike because it wasn't that long, I felt in pretty good hiking condition, and there were three people relatively close that knew exactly where I was. Despite all that, I still had a few scary moments. The 30' ladder at the top didn't look too bad, but once about halfway up I realized the entire thing was coated in about half and inch of ice. I was only even trying to climb it because I thought I would not have to climb back down it. The register had someone logged in doing the loop, which would take me down another way (with no ladders), and I thought I confirmed this by noting the tracks intersecting from where the loop ends. Well, I followed a set of tracks off the summit 100 yards and then they stopped. I pushed ahead a little to see if I could find any markers or sign it picked back up. Nothing. So back down the ladder I went. The main issue wasn't so much the icy ladder (yeah that sucked) but getting to the top of the ladder, as everything was coated in ice. It was one of those situations where one slip meant serious injury or even death, and I'm not being dramatic. It might be worth bringing some rope in the future for hikes like this.
[Pictures]Comment
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Nice pics, Kevin. Hopefully, we'll get up there this spring and do some climbing on those cliffs.Comment
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this climb is on crane mtn? looks like fun - how long is it?Comment
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The Waterfall Wall is broken up into several pitches by large ledges or streches of woods between ice.
The first pitch is about 100' high - a 70meter rope will just barely TR it - and is mostly easy 2 with one stretch of 2+ish near the top.
The next pitch starts as class 2 ice for perhaps 10 meters to a more or less hike up 40 meters more to a ledge. Above this is another 20 meters of ice that starts as a steep 2 but quickly eases off to 1 (it can be done as all 1 by staying far left) on this trip we combined the two pitches for a full 70 meter run.
That's as far as we went, given the time constraint before the Superbowl. Above this, there is perhaps 180 meters of hiking through the woods to another slab pitch that rates a solid 2, often on thin ice; for perhaps 50m. Above this, a 20m section sports an overhang and vertical ice for twenty feet to make a solid 3+/4 line.
Once on top of that, one can skirt downward to the south and tackle Fifi Freeze, the ice line that covers the summer rock climb Fifi Fingers. It has yet to be done; probably goes at 4/4+. The rock route is 5.10a. Farther south of that is Providence, a mixed route 3/5.6 first pitch following a narrow tendril of ice in a corner/chimney for one long pitch (60m) then up an easier iced slab (2) to a short steep headwall (3-) for a total of about 30m.
After that...well, you get the idea. Lots to do, just need a really adventurous soul to do 'em with!Comment
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