Northville-Placid Trail Thru-Hike 9/11-9/20

[fvrwld]

Prehike 9/10

On Friday my wonderful brother followed me up to Lake Placid(Averyville) where we left my car. We then drove all the way down to Bleeker where he dropped me off at Back to the Basics in Bleeker. Dan and Kim(theowners and licensed guides) were waiting for me and Redhawk was there too. I felt immediately at home there. After saying goodbye to my brother and then Redhawk Kim made a delicious dinner while I drank all their Corona and chatted. It was very hard to pull myself away from the conversation but finally I went to sleep in the bed provided by Dan and Kim free to NPT thru-hikers. In the middle of the night I was woken by a screech which scared me a bit at first untill I realized it must've been one of them screech owls. I quickly fell back to sleep.

[fvrwld]

Day 1 Benson--->Whitehouse (approx 16 miles)

Dan woke me up at 0630 and Kim made a delicious breakfast...eggs, bacon, sausage and bagels. After eating I packed up and Dan and Kim drove me to the trailhead in Benson around 0900. After pictures and goodbyes Gerard and I were off. As I headed up the road I could hardly believe was finally doing this.
The first day was a fairly easy but long hike. Early on I got a strange pain in my left knee when I stepped a certain way. It ended up bothering me for several days. The first day it was the worse making me yelp at times.
I passed Rock and Meco lakes just getting glimpses through the trees...I had been to them before. I stopped for a lunch break at Silver Lake. After Silver lake there was a pretty waterfall. I also saw a huge bearprint in the mud near there. Canary pond is beautiful with a couple nice campsites. The Mud Lake lean-to was occupied by teens. Its a nice lake but very difficult to get to the water there as the shore is muddy and boggy. I pushed on to Whitehouse where I knew Redhawk and Gary(Wildernessphoto) were going to meet me. I was pretty beat when I got there and took a rest. I pumped water at the Whitehouse Bridge. When I got done I saw Gary and Redhawk coming down the trail. I cooked while Gary chopped wood and Hawk got a nice fire going. Redhawk brought me a beer(mmm) and Gary saved me knee by getting me some duct tape uot of his jeep. (Thank You so much guys )We chatted a lot as I ate dinner. They left around 2130 and as they crossed the bridge they called me over. The stars in the sky that night were amazing from the bridge...the sky was perfectly clear. At around 2200 I went to sleep.

[fvrwld]

Day 2 Whitehouse--->Fall Stream (Approx. 13.5 miles)

I woke up around 0700 with a headache and knew it was a dehydration headache. From then on out I paid very close attention to drinking enough water. After pounding down some water and a luna bar I felt better and was on the trail by 0900 with my knee wrapped in duct tape. An easy day than the previous day but the 3 mile road walk really s**cked. Priest's vly is really beautiful...an oasis of life. I stopped at the Buckhorn stream for water. I wanted to stop at the Piesco store but that grumpy fat guy didn't want me coming near the store with Gerard because his ill-behaved mutt was barking so I said fine and continued on. Fantasies of plotting my revenge made the roadwalk go faster. I foolishly turned down a ride to the trailhead. When I got done with the road my feet were very sore and I had blisters on the inside of my knee from the duct tape. Finally I got to Fall Stream which had several nice campsites. I soaked my feet and cleaned up in the stream. That was a very pleasant evening. I got a nice fire going and the stream babbling was very soothing. I ended up melting my techwick shirt in the fire that night but it ended upo making an excellent ace bandage for my knee. I went to sleep around 2100.

[fvrwld]

Day 3 Fall Stream--->West Cananda Lake (approx 12 miles)

This was a more difficult days hike. There was lots of mud and blowdown on the trail but a very beautiful area. The West Canada Lakes is a gorgeous region and one of my favorites. I crossed the Jessup River and was expecting something bigger than what I found. It was my first visit to Spruce Lake and I was not disappointed. There was a huge beaver dam on the Sampson Bog outlet. Once I got to South Lake I felt like I was home having visited this area of the WCL wilderness often. As usual the area aound South Lake was very muddy but some new trail maintainence made the going easier. I saw lots of moose prints in the area. By the time I got to the first lean-to on West Lake I was pretty exhausted and it was getting late. I had not seen a single person that entire day but when I got to the lean-to there was a sleeping bag and a pack there. Having had my heart set on staying in that lean to I decided I would stay there anyway. After about an hour a guy showed up. I must've scared him because he packed up and left. I was very happy to have that lean-to which is one of my favorites in the Dacks. I took some beautiful pictures there of the sunset. That night was another star-filled night.

[fvrwld]

Day 4 West Lake--->Wakely Dam (approx 16.5 miles)

This was probably my hardest day of hiking. I woke up on West Lake to a mist rising with blue and pink skies. I did a little exploring around the shore and took some pictures before starting my hike. A small loon arrived but was mostly quiet. The hike over to Cedar Lake was pretty muddy. As usual I heard Cedar Lake before I saw it. The loons there are always very vocal. Most of the hike hike around cedar you can't see the water but you often hear the loons. I ate lunch at Ceadar Lake LT#1 where I have spent a few nights. The forest from Cedar Lake to the Moose River Plains was very nice with large stands of spruce. Often the trail was along the Cedar River which I learned can be paddled up to the Carry lean-to. The trail was poorly marked in spots though and a few times I was worried I was no longer on the NPT. As I neared the Moose River Plains I saw lots of deer and bear sign. Towards the end of the hike it was an old gravel road and was hard on the feet. The last mile on the Moose River Rec. Area road I did with my sandals. Wakely Dam can be reached by car and there were several campers there. Several older gentlemen were so sweet to me. When I went to sign the register book it fell apart on me and fell on the ground. One of the men came running over to pick it up for me and kept calling me maam. I was very sore that night and had no energy to start a fire. I was very grateful when I layed down.

[fvrwld]

Day 5 Wakely Dam--->Lake Durant (approx 12.5 miles)

The 6.5 mile roed walk to McCane's was not as bad as everyone said it would be. It was gravel and much more scenic than the Piesco road walk. I did it with my socks and sandals on which probably made it better. When I got to McCanes there was a sign that said "Trail Closed" but there were three men in the driveway who were very friendly and directed me behind the garage. Once again between McCanes and Stephens Pond I saw LOTS of moose tracks. A vly about a mile past McCanes which was supposed to be crossed on boardwalk and bridge had to be waded through. The boardwalk was gone and the bridge was about 2 feet under water. I got soaked here. I tried to skirt my way around on shrub stumps and fell in up to my waist. Thank heavens I was meeting my brother soon. The heater in his truck would proove very useful in drying my boots. I did have to stop several times though to wring out my socks. Even with that it was a very easy day of hiking. I think I was jsut getting used to it. 0.6 miles past Stephens Pond I ran into my brother who was hiking in to meet me. We hiked out to Lake Durant together. After relaxing and talking a while I took a very long shower. He cooked me a delicious dinner of steak, potatoes and rabi. It was so good to hear music. I ended up sending a lot of stuff home with my brother that I really didn't need and that really lightened myh pack. I also was resupplied with food and fresh clothes for the 2nd half of my hike.

[fvrwld]

Day 6 Lake Durant--->2nd crossing Sandy Creek(approx 14 miles)

It seems from here on out everyday go easier. This day wasn't too bad eventhough there was the only real ascent on the NPT. I passed the only other end to ender today...he was going north to south. Tirrell pond had a sand beach and cliffs on the other side. Float planewere landing on it and the DEC was by the O'Neil lean-to putting in a bridge. The ascent over Blue Ridge did get pretty steep at the top and it was steeper going down. Just before I sterted to climb there was a nice grassy meadow area. I camped on Sandy Dreek which had no designted site so I found a clearing a ways from the trail and water. I did not have a fire. What I thought was a people herd path was a deer herd path. I went to sleep hoping I wouldn't get trampled that night.

[fvrwld]

Day 7 Sandy Creek--->Plumleys Landing (approx 8.5 miles)

Probably my easiest day of hiking. I started early...around 0700 and was done before noon. Before crossing route 28N there was a long stretch of boardwalk. There was a short road walk up Tarbell Rd and then back into the woods. Soon you spot Long Lake. At times the trail is right on the lake, at others you can't even see the lake. I stopped at Kelly Point for a snack and water. I was kind of rushing to get to Plumleys because I really wanted that lean-to. Everytime I heard a float plane go overhead I thought they were flying to Plumleys to take that lean-to. When I got there it was available. Unfortunately a group of loud rednecks occupied the other leanto. One of the guys you could tell was smashed at 1200. He was very loud and was saying f-this and f-that. Then they started up the chainsaw and I could hear trees dropping. I looked for thier boat to get the reg. number but couldn't see it. They were quiet at times and I was able to relax a bit. Around 1700 two hikers showed up...Dave and Tom. They were brothers and were very nice. I was happy to share the lean-to with them and was relieved not to be alone with those yahoos so close.. We had pleasant conversation late into the evening. They even shared some brandy with me. The were hiking from Long Lake to Tahawus. There was a beautiful sunset that night. Later as I was snug in the lean to was the only time it rained the entire time I was on the NPT.

[fvrwld]

Day 8 Plumley's--->oulaska Brook Pass Lean-to (approx 10.5 miles)

It was cloudy when I woke up but it never rained that day. I left the lean-to about 30 minutes after Dave and Tom and we paseed each other several times that day. Halfway between Plumley's and Shattuck clearing there was a pond/swamp where the bridge had washed out but thankfully there was a very distinguished herd path around it. Shattuck clearing wasn't as great as I expected but soon after that you come to the Cold River which is absolutely beautiful. In a short distance you cross the Cold River twice on high bridges. The second one had a grate and you could see down to the river below. Gerard was afraid to cross this and I was afraid he woud try to jump rocks across the river. I quickly dropped my pack and went back to lead him across on leash. Once he did it he was able to back out on the bridge by himself. From here on the trail is along the Cold River. I really loved this part of the trail and am already planning on returning. The many falls and eddies along with the early fall colors really mad for spectacular scenery. The Oulaska lean-to was meticilously maintained and had typed transcripts of the journals dating back to 1986. Shortly after I got there Dave and Tom hiked by on their way to Duck Hole. It was the last time I saw them. I listened to my weather radio which was calling for frost that night in the Dacks. As I promised Jeff for his wedding I did a shot of Jagermeister(his choice...not mine) and actually enjoyed it. There was plenty of wood there and I got a good fire going. That night I realized that my hike was coming to an end and I wished it could go on forever.

[fvrwld]

Day 9 Oulaska LT--->Wanika Falls (approx 11 miles)

A little more difficult hike today because of blowdown and brush grown into the trail. The 1.5 miles before Duck Hole was easy(the old truck trail) Shortly after leaving the leanto you pass into the Noah John Rondeau hermitage area. There was a plaque and some artifacts laying about. After that the trail was kinda blah but rough untill just before Duck Hole. Duck Hole was beautiful and I was surprised to find no one there because it was so 'crowded' last time I was there. After Duck Hole the trail was nice as it followed the Roarind Brook for a while. When you leave it you soon come to Moose creek and then Moose Pond. I originally planned on staying at Moose pond but it was difficult to get to the water there so I pushed on to Wanika falls. There was a nice site there below the big falls by some smaller falls. There used to be a lean-to there but it had been removed. As I was eating dinner two guys came through who were planning on doing Street and Nye Mtns the next day. They camped farther up the falls. This night was kind of melancholy as it was my last night on the trail. I was definately feeling like I could live like this. What a life.

[fvrwld]

Day 10 Wanika Falls--->Lake Placid (approx 7.5 miles)

My last day. With a heavy heart I started out. I did not expect to feel as good as I did at this point. For a while the trail follows the Chubb River and then it parts from it and you don't see it untill the end. Several beaver dams are crossed in this part and you have views of some high peaks(Street and Nye I think). I was amazed by how many people I saw that day...the most of any day on the trail. Sveral bridges are crossed that are in bad need of repair. And then the end...

I really enjoyed the whole hike...even the difficult days. There was a lot of solitude. There were two stretches of more than 24 hours when I saw no one else. When I do it again(which I hope to within the next 5 years) I would like to take longer to do it. I think 12 days would be a good amount of time to do it in.

[sacco]

great report val. i enjoyed reading it. thanks.
that "fat, grumpy guy" at piseco comment made me laugh.
he reminds me of fat tony from the movie sleepers. lol

[Adk Keith]

Yes, great TR. Very inspiring.

I'm assuming you restocked when you met your brother? I'm wondering how difficult it would be to do the it without a restocking stop.

It's a definate on my to do list.

Keith

[Kevin]

ALMOST (and I stress almost ) tempts me to try the thru hike someday... but moments of insanity are fleeting for me nowadays.

[sacco]

seriously kev, why not? you'll day hike 30 miles up and down mountains?!?!

you got something against flat footers like val, hawk, and i?