Upper Wolf Jaw from the Garden 2/8/06

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  • runswithscissors
    Member
    • Dec 2003
    • 144

    #1

    Upper Wolf Jaw from the Garden 2/8/06

    The Phelps Trail from the Garden to the DEC Interior Outpost was a mix of mud, frozen mud and mud “slushies”. Throughout the trail there were deep, uneven, frozen footprints, protruding ice-coated rocks and roots and some very slick ice flows. Snow coverage was marginal. I crossed the "closed" suspension bridge over Johns Brook and survived to tell about it. Johns Brook was really moving and the volume of water was more like spring than February. I met briefly with a hiker who attempted to cross Johns Brook to the Southside Trail but decided to hike all the way to the suspension bridge because the brook crossing was just too dangerous. The Lower Range Trail before the Wolf Jaws Lean-to was also without adequate snow base and had many sections of blow down. From the Wolf Jaws Lean-to to Wolf Jaws Notch, the snow pack increased but not significantly. The Range Trail from the junction at Wolf Jaws Notch was unbroken snow increasing in depth as elevation increased. After the first Wolf Jaw "tooth" (lesser summit), snow depths and drifts varied from 12-24". There was a lot of blow down from Wolf Jaws col to the lesser summit. Unfortunately, on this extremely challenging and steep ascent, there is not a lot of room for creative detours so the many ledges, ice flows and near vertical chutes increased in complexity and danger.

    It was cold today so layers and pit-zips helped in insulating and venting. I hiked into the Wolf Jaws Lean-to in three layers and added a Gore-Tex shell from that point on. That helped out immensely shielding me from numerous snow bombs in addition to “commando-crawling” under blow down. The minimal snow conditions did not warrant snowshoes until Wolf Jaws Lean-to. Full boot crampons may have helped on the steeps, but I decided to keep my faithful Sherpa Mountain Lights on and trust the inch and a half Tucker Claws. Changing to 10-point crampons every time a steep ice flow was encountered would have been time consuming, awkward and precarious considering the severity of the slope. Trekking poles were extremely helpful and saved the day at one point when I lassoed a stump with the wrist loops and dragged myself up a huge (otherwise impassable) ice flow around 4040 feet.

    I'm sure most people have been in the position of wondering if or when they think they might have gone too far. Today was that kind of a day for me. While I am usually very careful with risk assessment (especially when solo hiking), I might have crossed that "point of no return" today. The ADK High Peaks Region Guide describes the trail to Upper Wolf Jaw from the Wolf Jaws col as " a steep to very steep climb switch-backing up through the many ledges on the steep slope". While this route may be steep in summer, in winter it's a whole different ball game. After struggling on the ascent, I had several close calls trying to descend safely. Physically and emotionally drained, I was very happy and relieved to return to the WJ col unharmed. I saw only two other hikers this day, one at the beginning of the trip and one at the end.

    Pete Hogan
  • Rookie
    Dream Farmer
    • Apr 2005
    • 899

    #2
    Sounds like a challenging and rewarding day ! Way to go !
    I've read other references to that "closed" bridge in other reports...seems like it's been "closed" for a while ! What's the deal ?
    What it is is in your head !

    Comment

    • Kevin
      **BANNED**
      • Nov 2003
      • 5857

      #3
      Originally posted by runswithscissors
      I'm sure most people have been in the position of wondering if or when they think they might have gone too far. Today was that kind of a day for me. While I am usually very careful with risk assessment (especially when solo hiking), I might have crossed that "point of no return" today.
      So that whole "the mountain will be there tomorrow" thing kinda went out the window, eh? I've gotten wrapped up in a few (dozen or more) climbs myself .

      Thanks for the beta on the not-so-great conditions. Crampons will be brought until I hear otherwise. Even in the summer that stretch from the col to the top of Upper Wolfjaw is tough in places. They're short sections but memorable. I remember the first time going down that trail with a full pack having just climbed my 2nd, 3rd, and 4th high peaks, wondering what the hell I was doing there . You reminded me of how slow I was descending when you mentioned having to take it easy to get down. We don't often mention Upper Wolfjaw as a tough hike, but someone inexperienced would definitely think so... especially in the condtions you described.

      Comment

      • Kevin
        **BANNED**
        • Nov 2003
        • 5857

        #4
        Originally posted by Rookie
        Sounds like a challenging and rewarding day ! Way to go !
        I've read other references to that "closed" bridge in other reports...seems like it's been "closed" for a while ! What's the deal ?
        There's some good discussion here...

        http://www.adkhighpeaks.com/forums/showthread.php?t=985

        Comment

        • Gray Ghost
          46er#6729
          • Sep 2004
          • 1319

          #5
          Not to hijack the thread, but how difficult a hike is Lower WJ from the Ausable Club with these conditions? Looking to do something this weekend, but I think it's going to be a bit brisk for Whiteface Memorial Highway, which is what I wanted to do.
          http://www.adkwildernessguide.com

          Comment

          • runswithscissors
            Member
            • Dec 2003
            • 144

            #6
            Gotcha!

            Kevin.............

            OK, OK you got me! How many times have I said,"the mountains will be there tomorrow!"

            While I'll admit that yesterday I exceeded my usual reach, I had been shut out of Colden twice this winter and my Irish got the best of me -- pushing upward when I might have (otherwise) called it a day. I must have crossed over to the "dark side".

            That is one of the reasons why I "scaled back" yesterday's hike deciding on Upper Wolf Jaw instead of a few alternative selections (Saddleback, Marshall) -- to see if I still had what it takes to complete a 4000' summit in winter. (So much for "scaling back!")

            I honestly did not think I was compromised beyond reason. But having said that, there are still a myriad of unknown "X" factors that somehow crop into the equation (especially in winter). Bottom line, though, it is still my choice to continue.

            I received an e-mail from someone today whose description of this human dynamic is perfect. He said,
            I love the binary between 'thinking' we're being especially cautious solo winter mountaineers and the reality of the stupidly dangerous situations we find ourselves in at the snap of an icy twig.
            That can't be said any better and aptly illustrates the predicament I placed myself in yesterday.

            But I do sincerely appreciate your reminder and sense of humor. I’d like to say that I learned my lesson, but that will have to wait until the next hike.

            Pete

            Comment

            • runswithscissors
              Member
              • Dec 2003
              • 144

              #7
              Taking Sides

              Gray Ghost,

              Last winter -- about this time (2/11), I climbed Lower Wolf Jaw from the AMR. By linking the Lake Road with the West Brook Trail and finally the Wedge Brook Trail, the route has (now) emerged as my favorite approach to the Wolf Jaws. In comparing the two approaches (The Garden or the AMR) I believe the vertical gain is about the same from both sides, but there is nearly a 2-mile savings with the AMR approach.

              With a different perspective from my most recent UWJ approach via The Garden, I can offer this regarding your inquiry. One caveat, I cannot speak of the current conditions on the AMR side, but they should be about the same right now as I encountered from the Johns Brook side on Wednesday. (See TR above). Last year, our group of three and one other group of three broke trail (12"-18" of fresh powder) the entire distance to LWJ so a time comparison may not be reliable.

              I believe the most scenic approach to either Wolf Jaw is from the AMR. However, if you experience any time delays and happen to lose daylight, the Phelps Trail back to the Garden is easier to follow in low light/night conditions and more frequently traveled in case of an emergency. There are also lean-tos on the Johns Brook side that could be helpful. I also believe that the approach via the Wedge Brook Trail is slightly steeper in the final section to the LWJ junction. The approach to Wolf Jaws Notch from the Garden seemed more gradual.

              Either way, the Wolf Jaws (in winter) should not be underestimated.

              Have a safe and enjoyable hike!

              Pete Hogan

              Comment

              • Kevin
                **BANNED**
                • Nov 2003
                • 5857

                #8
                Originally posted by runswithscissors
                the approach via the Wedge Brook Trail is slightly steeper in the final section to the LWJ junction. The approach to Wolf Jaws Notch from the Garden seemed more gradual.
                Having been on both trails/approaches I'll agree. The Garden is slightly higher (250 feet in elevation) than the AMR, so in that respect it's 250 feet less you have to climb. Just verified this with the NG Topo! software.

                Comment

                • Gray Ghost
                  46er#6729
                  • Sep 2004
                  • 1319

                  #9
                  I'm too lazy to look it up, but isn't it quite a longer trek from the Garden side? I don't think I'm going for LWJ anyway...looks like Whiteface or Colvin and Blake. Anyway, thanks for your advice, Pete. Maybe I can top off LWJ over my Feb. vacation. -GG
                  http://www.adkwildernessguide.com

                  Comment

                  • billandjudy
                    SnowTime
                    • Nov 2005
                    • 351

                    #10
                    Garden to WJ col is about 4.8 miles--from the AMR is about 4 miles plus the extra vertical--I happen to like the West River Trail--very nice walking.
                    We are off to the ADK's this afternoon--Planning on BigSlide via the Brothers Sat AM--will be at the garden around 7:30. Algonquin and Wright on Sunday-- same time
                    Enjoy the weekend. Looks like a little snow Sat night
                    Cats#1668/1669 and Cats HH- ADK#6338
                    http://billc926.smugmug.com/Nature

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