What a mess!

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  • Neil
    Admin

    • May 2004
    • 6129

    #1

    What a mess!

    Gothics attempt with Rico.

    Thank God I didn’t go into the Sawtooths as initially planned!
    Instead, Rico came by the Ark Trail Motel at 6 Saturday morning and after spotting a car at The Ausable Club we headed up towards Johns Brook Lodge. The trail was best bare-booted and there sure were a lot of fully leafed Beech saplings bowed down across the trail! The leaves were covered with ice and snow but luckily the temp was below freezing so we remained dry. We cruised at a reasonable pace, conseving energy, and gradually the snow depth increased. At the second LT in a couple of guys from Montreal were pretty freaked out to see all that snow. By the time we got to the Lodge environs there was lots and lots of beautiful postcard-white fluffy stuff. On our way we got nice views of the Bennies slide. Passing a lean-to with 3 or 4 guys getting organized someone said, “Are you Neil?” Ah, fame is such a burden. Like us, Adkdreamn from the Adkforum was gunnin’ for Gothics. On we went, our pace had gradually increased and eventually we got to that point when it was time to put the snowshoes on. The trip up the Orebed Brook was quite an experience, I must say. The crap across the trail was never-ending and it sent many a snow shower down our backs. We spent plenty of time and energy going around, under and over mother nature’s handiwork. Personally, I was in fine fettle and thanks to a few weeks of hard training and even some serious weight loss felt unstoppable and was infused with a happiness that only you, the reader, can relate to.

    Break time came at the Orebed LT and a family of Montrealers was there cooking a meal and cursing the conditions. After a quick bite we continued on our merry way. The snow kept getting deeper and deeper and deeper. At times, there was no snow on the trail itself due to running water. This was new: we snowshoed on a bed of submerged leaves with knee high snow on both sides. We hit a few real bad patches of deep snow and thick blowdown but the energizer bunnies in our legs were kicking out power like there was no tomorrow. We were especially thinking of the 5-star views we would be enjoying as we climbed the cable route and summited Gothics.

    Just after we crossed a major tributary of the Orebed a couple of Montrealers (the place was infested!) caught up with us. I paused to let Nathalie pass and she came to a screeching halt upon seeing there was no more broken trail. “Your turn” said I. LOL. Nathalie and Gilles were two hard-core and determined hikers all right and we made a good team of four as we progressed. Gooseberry Mountain was covered in a white, sun drenched mantle of wedding cake icing and helped us guage our slowing progress. We started having trouble sticking with the trail and before long found ourselves bushwhacking up the ever increasing pitch and ever increasing snow depth. Just as I feared, we hit a wall of Spruce. The snow on the uphill side of my thigh was indeed mid-thigh in height and totally unconsolidated. Every step became an effort of Herculean proportions. To make a long story short, after floundering around, backtracking, finding and losing the trail the energizer bunnies started to wind down. The idea of pushing and pushing and maybe summiting very, very late in the day soaking wet and exhausted was kinda unappealing to this old geezer and my sprightly companion Rico, so after 6 hours of trucking to get to the base of the Gothics-Saddleback col headwall (Gooseberry’s second bump was 280 degrees grid from us.) we turned the bows of our ships 180 degrees for what we knew would be a long hike out. After checking the map Rico pointed out that the col was 200 feet vertical HIGHER that Gooseberry’s main summit and when I translated that nifty piece of beta to our friends they did the fastest about-face I’ve ever seen.

    The trip out was wonderful though. The sun and our previous passage had done a great job on the trail and the heat was a balm on our souls. The snow bombs were awesome except Rico took a hit from a big chunk of ice right on the top of his head. Ouch! The water was pouring off the trees like a shower and what had been deep snow on the way in was now a muddy track on the ground thanks in part to a group of 10 Montrealers (encore!) who thought they would be going to Gothics sans snowshoes. Hah! I would of loved to have watched them when they got to our turnaround point!

    As we exited we chatted with several groups of people who had had experiences very similar to ours on different mountains. While resting at the 2nd LT 4 youngsters (early 20’s) came up to the LT and we yucked it up for a while. We surmised that no one summited anything that day although I thought maybe Phelps would have been doable. When they said they were doing Whiteface by the road on the morrow a light bulb went off in my head and I realized that that was where the smart money would be found.

    So, stay tuned for my Whiteface TR.
    The best, the most successful adventurer, is the one having the most fun.
  • Neil
    Admin

    • May 2004
    • 6129

    #2
    Pictures are right here.
    The best, the most successful adventurer, is the one having the most fun.

    Comment

    • Kevin
      **BANNED**
      • Nov 2003
      • 5857

      #3
      Valerie and I attempted Gore Mt yesterday and didn't bring snow shoes, which is why we only made it halfway up (12+" above 3000 feet). Your TR reminded me of why I try to avoid the high peaks until I hear "snowshoes needed from TH to summit". Looks like flatland dayhikes for me until probably late November, at the earliest .

      We also encountered a lot of blowdown and bent trees.

      Comment

      • adkdremn
        Dreamin I'm there....the ADKS!
        • Nov 2004
        • 535

        #4
        Yes, it's true, the highlight of my trip was meeting a true Adirondack icon....Neil!

        I'd post a trip report and pics, but it would look just like Neil's trip report from the opposite direction. The plan was UWJ, Armstrong and Gothics with possibly LWJ at the end. Needless to say, the trip kept getting scaled back. First it was, "let's at least try for UWJ and Arstrong", then it was, "well, how about UWJ?", then it was, "maybe we'll just get LWJ." And then the harsh reality of the day set in, "if we don't turn back now we won't make it back before dark!"

        The trip was just me and my brother-in-law arriving at the Howard lean-to at 11 p.m. Friday night. Around 11:30 three other guys came by and they were trying for the WJ lean-to, which had been my original plan, and then the same trip as us on Saturday. They pushed on hoping to make WJ lean-to. Needless to say, about 15 minutes later, back they came and crashed with us for the night. Great bunch of guys, Terrence and Scott, students as Paul Smith's and Miller, a student at UVM.

        The five of us set of Saturday morning putting our snowshoes on right after we crossed John's Brook by the outpost. We experieced the same stream, leaf mush that Neil encountered. Blowdown was unbelievable!! A lot of off trail navigation, over, under and around every kind of tree there is in the ADK's! We made it a little past the WJ lean-to and that was it! I thinked we figured around 2 miles, toward our goal, in like three hours. Not even to the WJ Notch. Oh well, it was a beautiful day and this was my first time ever hiking or camping in these conditions! Needless to say, I loved every minute of it!! We got back to the lean-to early and just relaxed as we were staying another night, but the college kids were headed off for what college kids do best! They gave us the rest of their whiskey, we said our good byes and they were off.

        We saw a good amount of people on Saturday afternoon and the amount of unpreparedness amazed me! All kinds of people with no snowshoes and lots of people wearing cotton! In fact one group of 4 Canadians was heading for the WJ lean-to, which thanks to us had a broken trail, and had no snowshoes and one of their members was wearing jeans. I spent the night wondering if they made it and how comfortable they were. This was my first time in these conditions and I made it through just fine. My only problem was wearing too much. I spent much of my hiking time sweating too much, fortunately I had dry stuff to put on.

        An awesome weekend in a beautiful winter wonderland, that I won't get to see down here til January if then.
        *************ENDLESS WINTER**************

        Comment

        • Neil
          Admin

          • May 2004
          • 6129

          #5
          We met those college kids on the way out and they gave me the idea to do Whiteface the next day. In fact, I met them on my way down as they were nearing the top with all their alpine skiing gear dangling off their packs. Great bunch of guys is right!

          Yeah, the conditions sure caught a lot of people off guard didn't they? Jeans and 3 feet of snow, gotta love those Dacks!
          The best, the most successful adventurer, is the one having the most fun.

          Comment

          • twochordcool
            • Oct 2005
            • 627

            #6
            Originally posted by Neil
            The trail was best bare-booted and there sure were a lot of fully leafed Beech saplings bowed down across the trail! The leaves were covered with ice and snow but luckily the temp was below freezing so we remained dry
            My girlfriend and I experienced THE EXACT same thing hiking into Pillsbury Lake (West Canada Wilderness) IN THE DARK, with flashlights, last Thursday night! I WAS AMAZED at how many small trees took a beating from that snow/ice/rain storm and wondered if that many trees came down during every winter storm?

            Unlike you, we did get a little wet - every branch we had to bump with our tall packs brought snow right down the back of our necks! MISERABLE!

            The trail was also very muddy in places and water-crossings were in dire need of work - new, strong 2 X 8's etc. - our feet got good and wet and muddy.

            I don't think I saw one single trail marker on the way in because of the snow cover. We followed footprints on the way in!

            It's also a good thing we did not miss the lean-to sign on the way in - THE WORST section of trail (really nasty beaver dammage!) was on the trail just past the Pillsbury Lake lean-to!

            It all made me realize - "HOLY SHI#, what if we go in too far into the wilderness and we get a snow storm and there are no more footprints and we can't tell where the trail is in many places?"

            We also did not have snowshoes - can't really afford them and did not want that to prevent us from going!

            What was supposed to be a 4 day backpacking loop trip, covering Pillsbury Lake, Sampson Lake, West Lake and Cedar Lake became a "well, let's just chill out at Pillsbury Lake for 4 days"!

            Well, I learned a few valuable lessons -

            NO MORE night backpacking in winter-ish conditions.

            NO MORE hiking w/o gaiters in winter-ish conditions.

            It turned out to be a nice trip afterall. I have a tendency to want to push it (and the people I am with) to wake up and eat and throw our things back in our packs and head off to the next place to see - I have to get back into appreciating sitting still at a beautiful spot for a while - that's what it's really all about anyway! I haven't been many places outside of the High Peaks and I am just curious to see the next place and the next place and the next place - to find THE ULTIMATE place! If I knew exactly which spot was the prettiest I could probably be content with going there and staying put for a few days! But they're all beautiful in their own way.

            Pillsbury Lake was VERY beautiful.

            BTW, which lake/spot/lean-to IS the prettiest in the West Canada Lakes Wilderness???

            Comment

            • Neil
              Admin

              • May 2004
              • 6129

              #7
              Night hiking in winter is usually fine. You encountered exceptionally bad conditions. I almost never wear gaitors. It sounds like you were dependant on the footprints to stay on your intended route which can be a crap shoot. In winter it's easy to either lose the trail or to follow someone else's footprints who has lost the trail so you need to be sure about your navigational aids. We lost the summer route going up Gothics due to the deep snow, blowdown and obscured trail markers. If we had carried a gps with an accurate tracklog of the route entered into it we would have increased our chances of finding the trail whenever we strayed from it. This may help answer your question about campsites.
              The best, the most successful adventurer, is the one having the most fun.

              Comment

              • twochordcool
                • Oct 2005
                • 627

                #8
                Originally posted by Neil
                This may help answer your question about campsites.
                WHICH lean-to on West Lake is that?



                I asked somebody else the same question (favorite spot on that loop) and they chose a spot on Cedar Lake.

                Care to try to rank lean-tos in that area and tell me why?

                Comment

                • Kevin
                  **BANNED**
                  • Nov 2003
                  • 5857

                  #9
                  Twochordcool, I did the exact same thing last Fall. We had an aggressive itinerary (exact same as yours) but ended up just staying at Pillsbury Lake instead. It was also one of the first times I ever "slowed down" and just enjoyed the scenery. I can still remember the moon that first night.

                  Comment

                  • Kevin
                    **BANNED**
                    • Nov 2003
                    • 5857

                    #10
                    Here's a few photos from our Gore Mt hike. I'm just going to piggyback off Neil's thread since I have very little to add. And "what a mess" about sums up my report .







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