High Peak Ice Climbing

[KurtVon]

I'm looking to getting into some awsome Ice Climbing this winter. I'm pretty skilled in climbing and will be taking a few buddies with me. I want to mainly do areas in the ADK high peaks. What mountains provide good climing? I know the trap dyke is a must do, but what other slides can be climbed? What methods do you use to climb these slides? Have one person secure a route while the other is free to climb up and then just switch off and continue like so...? Anyone know if the waterfalls on (Feldspar/Uphill brook?) are climbable during the winter? Looks like something fun to climb with huge rock walls on both sides. Any other areas besides the high peaks to do some sweet ice climbing?

Thanks,

Kurt

[pico23]

Climbing is spread well throughout the park. Get Blue Lines for the complete guide. However, some places might not be in there still.

The High peaks will be the most crowded place, and the only place you are guaranteed to see crowds. Even the Trap Dike will see a few groups a weekend.

There are climbs on both sides of Cascade Pass, including the Adirondike. this is significantly harder than the Trap Dike. It's 3+ to 4- (if my memory is correct). There is also a climb on Algonuin.



But even places like snowy mountain have ice climbs, as do crane mountain. Azure Mountain. etc.

If you just pick pretty much any trail in the Adirondacks you'll find 20-50ft ice flows along it. i often take my ice tools and crampons so I can ice boulder when going on a hike. My dog is like lassy so if I fall he will go for help. Very reassuring!!!!

[Anita]

north face of gothics comes to mind, if you're really intent on only high peaks climbing. also agree with picking up blue lines - there's a section on the high peaks that covers some of these slide climbs.
I would suggest the north side of pitchoff - beautiful setting, and excellent moderate climbs - lots of classics there.
a little off the beaten path - Pharaoh mountain. look forward to checking it out later this ice season

[C4C]

north face of gothics comes to mind, if you're really intent on only high peaks climbing. also agree with picking up blue lines - there's a section on the high peaks that covers some of these slide climbs.
I would suggest the north side of pitchoff - beautiful setting, and excellent moderate climbs - lots of classics there.
a little off the beaten path - Pharaoh mountain. look forward to checking it out later this ice season

I've been wanting to do pharaoh as well. If you need a partner shoot me a pm. I'm local and have a flexible schedule.

[percious]

north face of gothics comes to mind, if you're really intent on only high peaks climbing. also agree with picking up blue lines - there's a section on the high peaks that covers some of these slide climbs.
I would suggest the north side of pitchoff - beautiful setting, and excellent moderate climbs - lots of classics there.
a little off the beaten path - Pharaoh mountain. look forward to checking it out later this ice season

If you are new to ice climbing, NF of Gothics is probably not a great choice. The ice is thin and hard to protect, and the area is avalanche prone. There are accidents there frequently and it doesn't really come "in" until February, when the ice is like styrofoam.

If it must be a HP then Cascade is probably your best bet to bag a climb and a summit, but you are going to have to fight off brush, as well as a few other ice climbers in this popular area.

The best thing you can do is to nix any requirements, find some people to climb with and just climb what they want, or pony up the cash and rent gear and hire a guide. I recommend going with a guide because they know their stuff, are safe, and in my opinion are worth every penny. Contact the Mountaineer* for more info. You might find out that you absolutely despise the dis-comfort associated with ice climbing. The investment in renting equips before you buy is worth it.

-percious

*disclaimer. I am not ofiliated with the Mountaineer, but I am an AMGA top rope guide.

[pico23]

The TNF gothics is not a great place for new or experienced climbers.

2 years ago 2 people took long falls off the slab. they were both experienced climbers.

the hardest part of the slab is the lower section, but protection is not great, it's also not generally climbable till around march.

TNF gothics is in some ways as hard as you make it. The sides offer more pro in the form of trees, the center is harder to protect.

Either way, it's a climb you should wait for ideal conditions.

Oh, and the summer version isn't great either. Chossy, dirty and not too pretty.

[mikeharo]

Pico

Where was that picture taken?

[pico23]

The photo with Algonquin in the background is the Trap Dike, just before you ascend the headwall and the summit slabs.

The ice climb in the background is (I believe) the Adirondike.

[aoc-1]

The ice climb in the background is (I believe) the Adirondike.

That's Avalanche Mountain Gully, a 4 minus route across the lake that starts between the Hitch-up Matildas.

Here's a closer shot of the route: