YB and FOG hiked out to New Buck early this morning, figuring to enjoy the contrast of sport climbing in the solitude of a wilderness setting. It turned out to be the busiest climbing area in the Daks, which was fine and dandy: a peculiar twist of circumstances brought Tom R. and partner out there, and an hour later four students freshly finished with Skidmore finals wandered in. Strange coincidence that 8 people choose the same day to climb at a little-known crag 2 miles from nearest road!
We started on a nice 5.6 or 7 mixed line; mostly bolts but a few gaps taking serviceable trad pro. Immediately to its right was a challenging line we top-roped; both of us getting after several tries. This latter is called "The Devil Wears Prana" and with Tom's arrival we found out it is rated at 5.10b or c. If God created a 5.10c I could do, this would be it: several extremely balancy mantles and stands with diddly for hands. While it took a fair amount of strength, technique was its major requirement.
We moved down to the right end of the cliff where Young Buck led the semi-trad 5.5 line and then we top-roped the crack to its right and the face between the two. The crack was 5.7ish, the face between 5.10a or so.
Near the center of the cliff, a plumb hand-crack ran up and YB opted to lead this. Tom says it is 5.5 or so, but after doing it we would place it closer to 5.7. Perhaps we're not accustomed to crack climbing, but it did seem a bit too stout for 5.5. The bolted route to its right looked far too hard to bother attempting.
We wandered back left to Pickpocket and Jamie led that, this is perhaps the nicest route there: 5.8 if and only if you find and use everything it has. There are a few reachy moves that make the climb a bit difficult for short fat old guys.
We then top-roped the line directly to its right, a stout 5.10. Both of us got the first crux but both of us flailed at the second. I managed to cheat it a bit by using the crack to the right, but this doubtless lowers the grade considerably.
We were pretty tired, from both the climbing and the heat, so we chose to pack up and head out. The two-mile exit went quickly and in no time I was dropping YB off and heading north to recover some gear left on last Sunday's project.
It rained a bit on the way up to Gull Pond, and threatening thunder rolled across the hills as I gathered gear at the car, but the sun poked through the haze and cloud cover as I rapped down to my waiting equipment. Two men paddled a canoe back and forth on the pond, occasionally hooking brookies, as I fiddled with gear and sweated the length of my rope. That latter is a bit too short for the rappel: I had to make creative use of a small tree and the pile of boulders at the bottom of the route. Note to self: the cliff is higher than 35 meters!
As I drove away from Gull Pond, the rain began in earnest. Great way to end the day.
We started on a nice 5.6 or 7 mixed line; mostly bolts but a few gaps taking serviceable trad pro. Immediately to its right was a challenging line we top-roped; both of us getting after several tries. This latter is called "The Devil Wears Prana" and with Tom's arrival we found out it is rated at 5.10b or c. If God created a 5.10c I could do, this would be it: several extremely balancy mantles and stands with diddly for hands. While it took a fair amount of strength, technique was its major requirement.
We moved down to the right end of the cliff where Young Buck led the semi-trad 5.5 line and then we top-roped the crack to its right and the face between the two. The crack was 5.7ish, the face between 5.10a or so.
Near the center of the cliff, a plumb hand-crack ran up and YB opted to lead this. Tom says it is 5.5 or so, but after doing it we would place it closer to 5.7. Perhaps we're not accustomed to crack climbing, but it did seem a bit too stout for 5.5. The bolted route to its right looked far too hard to bother attempting.
We wandered back left to Pickpocket and Jamie led that, this is perhaps the nicest route there: 5.8 if and only if you find and use everything it has. There are a few reachy moves that make the climb a bit difficult for short fat old guys.
We then top-roped the line directly to its right, a stout 5.10. Both of us got the first crux but both of us flailed at the second. I managed to cheat it a bit by using the crack to the right, but this doubtless lowers the grade considerably.
We were pretty tired, from both the climbing and the heat, so we chose to pack up and head out. The two-mile exit went quickly and in no time I was dropping YB off and heading north to recover some gear left on last Sunday's project.
It rained a bit on the way up to Gull Pond, and threatening thunder rolled across the hills as I gathered gear at the car, but the sun poked through the haze and cloud cover as I rapped down to my waiting equipment. Two men paddled a canoe back and forth on the pond, occasionally hooking brookies, as I fiddled with gear and sweated the length of my rope. That latter is a bit too short for the rappel: I had to make creative use of a small tree and the pile of boulders at the bottom of the route. Note to self: the cliff is higher than 35 meters!
As I drove away from Gull Pond, the rain began in earnest. Great way to end the day.
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