Panther Gorge Climbing Resources – New Routes-Reports-Interactive Map-Photo Beta

[mudrat]

Thanks for the info Mudrat.
Do you remember the Blue Suede Hummingbirds? [just wondering]

Surely.
Nope, I don't. hmm....

[Woodly]

Thanks for the info Mudrat.
Do you remember the Blue Suede Hummingbirds? [just wondering]

[mudrat]

Oops. I almost missed these, been so busy. Congratulations to all.
Whats the preferred shoe now on these?

Busy for sure! Life has been crazy since March. Thank you.

I use a combination of La Sportiva Miuras and some old school Five Tens that have been resoled if I want more comfort. That said La Sportiva TC Pro is on my wish list. You'll see alot of people in both La Sportivas that I mentioned.

[Woodly]

Oops. I almost missed these, been so busy. Congratulations to all.
Whats the preferred shoe now on these?

[mudrat]

And finally to wrap up the PG season (I think).

September 6 found Adam Crofoot, Katie Vannicola, and me putting up a long-standing multi-pitch route on Haystacks Shield that Adam had been eye-balling since 2017: Trigger Warning (.10b)

September 12: I took a newbie, Colin Aldrich, back to PG and we put up a 360' multi-pitch on the Agharta Wall. Wrecking my Zen went as and aided route (5.9 A0) and broke through the lower roofs. Crofoot had explored the first moves on this back in 2016. Now someone just has to go free it. Maybe next year.

1. Haystack (No Man's Land)-Trigger Warning (5.10b+) (w/Adam Crofoot & Katie Vannicola) 2020 Sept. 6.
2. Marcy (Agharta Wall)-Wrecking My Zen (5.9 A0) (w/Colin Aldrich) 2020 Sept. 12.

Adam on Trigger Warning


Colin on Wrecking My Zen

[Woodly]

Interesting, I'm glad I asked. Thanks.

[mudrat]

Mudrat-you know I'm liking all that and a big CONGRATULATIONS to you and your friends. Pretty awesome stuff you folks have done.
Question-in the first pic of the Impaler, across the valley is seen a massive crack/gully. Is it named, have you climbed that?

This is what the gully looks like near the bottom:

[mudrat]

Mudrat-you know I'm liking all that and a big CONGRATULATIONS to you and your friends. Pretty awesome stuff you folks have done.
Question-in the first pic of the Impaler, across the valley is seen a massive crack/gully. Is it named, have you climbed that?

Thanks, Woodly. This has been really therapeutic this summer and some of these have been things we've been trying to get on for years. The dry weather has really helped.

That gully divides the Panther Den and Feline Wall. I have a line that basically goes up the edge of it called Promised Land. We rapped down the gully afterward. In the winter it's a decent I climb. My friend Matt climbed it several years ago, and because I wasn't available named it "Sorry Kevin." LOL. Anyway it's overhung at the top and more chossy/low angle below. It's an interesting feature all the way around.

[Woodly]

Mudrat-you know I'm liking all that and a big CONGRATULATIONS to you and your friends. Pretty awesome stuff you folks have done.
Question-in the first pic of the Impaler, across the valley is seen a massive crack/gully. Is it named, have you climbed that?

[mudrat]

Added Slab the Impaler, a fun 170' 5.9 Slab climb on Haystack's dominant shield: August 22, 2020. Trip report is here: https://www.summitpost.org/a-tale-of...2-2020/1054592

[mudrat]

3 impressive climbs and sets of photos with plenty of exposure. Congratulations and thanks.

My thanks. It's been a phenomenal season with the dry weather. Two of these are lines I've been eyeballing for years.

[Woodly]

3 impressive climbs and sets of photos with plenty of exposure. Congratulations and thanks.

[mudrat]

We got a little more work done in Panther Gorge on July 26 (Had the Radish (.8+)/80', Nothing but the Rain (.9+)/100') and August 1 (Throne to the Lions (.9+)/270'). The weather's been dry and the wind has kept the temps down on the days we needed it to. Loren Swears was with on the 26th, then Bill Schneider was on board yesterday. Great days out with great friends.

• Throne to the Lions: https://www.mountainproject.com/rout...e-to-the-lions
• Nothing but the Rain: https://www.mountainproject.com/rout...g-but-the-rain
• Had the Radish: https://www.mountainproject.com/rout...had-the-radish

Thone:


Nothing But the Rain:

[mudrat]

Added ANORTHOSITE OVERCAST (5.11a) on 2020 July 19.

Yup...the hottest day of the summer (95F in the valley) thus far was cool at elevation with heavy winds.

Sometimes it takes years to put finish a rock-climbing project; in this case it took 17 albeit with a decade-long Panther Gorge hiatis. Adam Crofoot and his partners at the time, Bill Schneider and Nic Gladd, spotted a hard aesthetic line on the prow of the Panther Den, the cliffs highest point, in 2003. The finger crack that breaks a roof remained on Adam’s mind as the years ticked by. Not only did it appear hard and technical, but it tends to be wet early in the season or after significant rainfall. Finally, in 2019, he began working on it on solo top rope. The journey ended with his lead on July 19, 2020. Anorthosite Overcast, a play on the Will Mayo route called Aluminum Overcast, came in at a burly 5.11a. Photo 1 is and updated route plate from the Panther Gorge book. The remainder are of Adam working the route on TR before the lead. It was an honor to be part of this project.

Photos: https://photos.app.goo.gl/7b1zNazkJaBWTYtr9

Below, Crofoot working the route on solo TR in June of 2019, a year before the FA.

[mudrat]

Tomcat on Haystack

Added Tomcat (5.8+ / 500') on July 4 with Steven St. Pierre. The route was named by Steven in memory of Tom Wright whose kind, genuine, adventurous soul lives on in the hearts of many Adirondack locals.

https://www.summitpost.org/tomcat-in-panther-gorge/1053016