Nice link, my cousin was trying to talk me into fly fishing which I have never done. Now I have an idea of what to look for if I buy a fly rod.
Buy from a shop that lets you demo the rod. AND try your cousin's. If you have some good instruction and a rod that lets you feel the load of line energy on the backcast, and the release on the forward cast...even as a beginner...you have the rod that is right for you. Ask to demo the rod. The shop-pro may not immediately offer.
I disagree with his, Betters', suggestion for rod/line weights and lengths.
A 9 ft length is the absolute best choice for a beginner. Even on small streams, when one can rarely overhead cast, regardless of rod length. The 9 ft length allows for a better roll cast, and high sticking nymphs, additionally it will allow dapping dries on tiny creeks. A 6 wt rod is the most versatile. You can use it to catch bass, pike, trout, and LL salmon. King salmon may need a little more back bone But, keep in mind all the huge fish caught on a kids' Snoopy/Zebco rod.
I am curious what others think about Betters' "soft tip...not accurate..." observation.
Shaq named a great place. The staff there knows their stuff and take care of customers.
I stopped in last spring and was looking for some tying materials. I had a box of pike and bass hooks in my hand and was talking with one of the pros. He told me to put that more expensive box back and pick up a box with three-times as many hooks for half the price. I use them and love them. That's service!
They do demo and offer some casting lessons.
You can try Whitakers in Pulaski, too. I am not sure what their price range is, but it is a full service shop. I always have my eyes on high-end gear and budget to get it. It's my vice, like fine wine and single barrel bourbon. I do drive a 1995 F-150, though...
Thanks Shaq and Alsara, I'll give them a try in the spring,[or sooner]. Alsara, we have the same two vices. If you havn't already, try a nice Barolo! Add a rib eye off the grill and who could ask for more!!!!.....H.
It's my vice, like fine wine and single barrel bourbon. I do drive a 1995 F-150, though...
So this is how I interpret the above..."I wanted to go fishing, but I was hung over like a dog .
Plus my truck was in the shop after the sum-bitch blew it's third head gasket ...
...So, no, I didn't go fishing today ."
So this is how I interpret the above..."I wanted to go fishing, but I was hung over like a dog .
Plus my truck was in the shop after the sum-bitch blew it's third head gasket ...
...So, no, I didn't go fishing today ."
Oops. Let me clarify. I never have an excuse not to go fishing. Some of my partners on the other hand... and clients. I'm still driving my Ford for a reason...
The fish are always cold and wet. No reason not to pursue them. Except frozen guides, but some Pam nonstick-cooking spray makes it possible!
I am curious what others think about Betters' "soft tip...not accurate..." observation.
I agree that a stiff tip is more accurate than the softer ones. I feel there is a tradeoff though, the stiffer tip (at least for me), hurts my dry fly presentation, mostly with the fly smacking against the water pretty violently. I prefer a little more delicate landing, to keep from spooking the few fish I can find.
I agree that a stiff tip is more accurate than the softer ones. I feel there is a tradeoff though, the stiffer tip (at least for me), hurts my dry fly presentation, mostly with the fly smacking against the water pretty violently. I prefer a little more delicate landing, to keep from spooking the few fish I can find.
Just my 2cents
While this is true if you cast them the same, I have found the stiffer tips offer a better reach cast but you do have to stop the cast higher. Cast about 10 feet beyond your target and draw the fly slightly back towards you. This gives you a better drag free drift from the get go. takes some practice but it's worth it especially on flat braided water.
I'll find 'im for 3...but I'll catch 'im, and kill 'im for 10
Dear Drifter,
You cant go wrong with the "Goldilocks" approach.......Demo a series of rods from an upstanding flyshop, ignore price, brand, flex-rating, etc. After a few casts with each, you will say: This one is too soft....This one is too stiff.......
and eventually: This one is just right! dont worry about why in techno speak- it's about FEEL....... it is beneficial to go with an unconditional warranty....If possible try a couple of different lines as well-
My opinion on length for trout fishing is 8'6"- 9' for the larger trout streams in the east. I dont agree with the tire kicking test- look at the rod for it's quality of workmanship and componentry ( however, nickel silver doesnt make you a better angler), but it sure is purty.......... Good Luck
I would say there is a difference between soft action rods and a rod with a soft tip.
You can get a poor quality fast action rod with a soft tip and a good quality slow action rod with a firm tip.
This is because the portion of a soft rod that 'loads' or 'flexes' extends further from the tip top than a fast action rod.
That's the difference between a fast and slow action rod.
For example, if you take a yard stick and lay it on a table, extend 3 inches over the edge and hold it down, now flex the tip, how much flex do you get at the tip? Not much. Now extend half the yard stick over the edge, and do it again. Much more flex, same tip.
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