lake durant-placid 9/27-29

[Kerry]

I wasn't going to go. After the first 70 miles I had 3 12 hour days at work. On Thursday the sore throat started (students bringing germs from everywhere). But last week a long-time colleague was shot and killed. The funeral was Friday. Sometimes that level of sadness requires time in the woods. Despite illness and torrential rain on Friday night, I headed off early Saturday morning, leaving the car on 28. Everything was wet, but I was making good time and the foliage was about the best I have ever seen....then I hit the brook turned beaver pond about 9 miles in and could find no dry way around. There were these logs across where the bridge had been. DON'T TRY THIS. I got 3/4 of the way across when I realized 2 things: the water was over my head; 2 of the 3 logs were just floating. Two steps from safety I fell in (yup, head and all). Luckily, my pack cover kept all my stuff dry. The real casualties were my boots and later, I would discover, my knee. I changed my socks and pushed onward hoping to dry out. And indeed the climb up Blue Mt on a warm and pretty sticky day dried my clothes and hair quickly. There is another big beaver dam with another bridge out at the Caitlin bay lean to. This time I took off my boots (though why since they stayed wet all weekend). I arrived at Plumleys at 6:15 after 24 miles to find that 2 small groups of men (in boats) had taken over both lean-tos and were not inclined to share despite a forecast of rain. One group was actually hostile. I've never been treated this way while hiking. I moved off and set up my tent, swam briefly in Long Lake in the gathering dusk. My consolation was that the warm humid conditions brought all the mosquitoes in the area back to life and it didn't rain. On the other hand the sore throat kept me awake, and my knee began to stiffen and throb. The next morning stayed overcast though the rain held off until about noon. The hike along the Cold River is one of my favorite sections. By the time I arived at Duck Hole the rain came hard and steady. I hoped to make it as close to Placid as possible in order to shorten my hike in the morning, but my leg was swelling and hurt with every step and the leaves (though quite lovely) made the trail very slick. Although there are lots of beaver issues in this section, the herd paths around are obvious and dry. I thought about staying at Moose Pond, but the air was so filled with moisture I figured all my gear would be soaked so I continued on to Wanika Falls (22 miles) and set up camp (nice tents sites), crammed as much of my stuff in my tiny 1 person tent as I could, drank some tea and settled in to listen to the water. The pain in my knee woke me up every time I moved. Still my tent held up well in the heavy rain, and I headed off at about 7:15 having eaten the last of my peanut butter cookies for breakfast. The section around Wanika falls is quite rocky and has a lot of up and down terrain. I was concerned (given my knee) that this would continue all the way into Lake Placid, but the trail flattens out soon and is fast and easy (except for the scary bridge with the rotting middle log over the Chubb). I enjoyed watching the canopy change. Last week to the south there was a lot of green with the lakes ringed in red. Then this week the foliage around Long Lake/ Blue Mt was just at peak. As I appraoched Lake Placid, the canopy again shifted to bright yellow and the trail remained deep with wet, fallen leaves. And suddenly I was at the road, unprepared for suburbia! I walked to the Old Miltary rd and started hitchhiking, grateful that it had stopped raining. This week people were very nice about picking me up just to get me to better spots to stand. In fact the first couple rides took me from the very busy bypass road to the Saranac Lake high school. At that point I was able to get a ride to Tupper Lake, and then I was offered a lift by a very nice retired teacher who drove me out of his way to my car. He even carried my pack and then after driving off came back to make sure my car started. I changed and was headed home by 2. I've spent the week nursing my knee and fighting off the cold. I enjoyed this trail very much. There were almost no hikers at all, and from the logs it seems as if only one person was ahead of me through-hiking. Really the only people I met were small groups of men at lean-tos on Saturday nights. I bet the skiing is pretty wonderful in many parts of the trail.

[hillman1]

That experience at the long lake lean to area is horrible. I've gone through there twice and have never seen anyone, but I've heard lots of stories like that. I also noticed at one point a sign put up(not by the DEC) that lean tos have been removed. I didn't bother checking it out, but I suspect it is put up by locals looking to keep them for the fishermen and not the hikers.

[redhawk]

I had the same difficulty at Plumletys several years ago. It's the incident I often refer to.

More then likely it's idiots (and I hope some of them read this) who have been flown in by float plane (Another good reason to ban them from the lakes).

As far as the absence of signs that Hillman refers too, yes it's the local boaters who them in order to discourage through hikers.

Those logs you talk about across the beaver pond also did a number on one of my party a few weeks ago. Sorry about your knee. It took grit to continue and complete your journey. Hopefully when you are feeling better you will reap the benefit of knowing what you accomplished in the face of adversity.

Hawk

[hillman1]

The dec should patrol that area more for this type of behavior. Lean tos are available up to the capacity of the shelter. And if they fly in a planeload of crap, that can sit in the rain while the people are in the lean to.

[adktyler]

This sounds like a classic story of fun, Adirondack misery. Nicely told!

"Personally, I miss the old-fashioned misery of old-fashioned camping." -Patrick McManus, A Fine and Pleasant Misery

[wyldeflower]

Kerry, I'm sorry about the loss of your colleague. That's very sad. You describe your trip so well. I remember that spot that you refer to the floating logs. Now, I should have posted a report about it, but I thought that it was mentioned. I was with someone who tried to make it across on those logs (Hawk refers). He almost made it unscathed. As I followed my hiking buddy, I decided to remove my boots and walk along the submerged bridge. I made it no problem, but it is a problem there.

Anyway, that trail. It's so great with all its obstacles and beauty and ruggedness. I wanna go back! Maybe I could even get in there to ski this winter. I figured the same thing - there are some good stretches for skiing and overnight camping. Add to the "to do" list.

I'm hoping to thru-hike this summer.

[TheNatrix]

I had the same difficulty at Plumletys several years ago. It's the incident I often refer to.

More then likely it's idiots (and I hope some of them read this) who have been flown in by float plane (Another good reason to ban them from the lakes).


Hawk

Nice trip report. Sorry about the incident at the lean-to. While doing a thru hike at the end of August we ran in to some people at Tirrell Pond with quite an extensive camp site set up, even with dog food out in the open! Luckily we were not planning on stopping there.

Redhawk, what do you think the chances of float planes being banned on the lakes actually is? Is there talk of such a thing or is it just some wishful thinking? Thanks.

[redhawk]

Nice trip report. Sorry about the incident at the lean-to. While doing a thru hike at the end of August we ran in to some people at Tirrell Pond with quite an extensive camp site set up, even with dog food out in the open! Luckily we were not planning on stopping there.

Redhawk, what do you think the chances of float planes being banned on the lakes actually is? Is there talk of such a thing or is it just some wishful thinking? Thanks.

You know. I don't really have a problem with float planes on Long Lake. I don't consider that in the same way as Lowe's or Tirrell Pond. The problem isn't the float planes in those cases, the problem is the attitudes of some of the clients.

I have always had a theory that the further you go into the woods, the better the people you meet up with. the reasoning being that people who will put in the time and effort to get into more remote places are the ones who really appreciate nature and will take what measures they can to help preserve it. It has also been my experience that they are also more considerate to others then the average run of the mill person. It's almost as paradox, but it seems as if those who seek solitude the most are also those who are willing to share it (as in lean-to or campsite).

While I have been talking about backpackers and paddlers primarily, the same seems to hold true for hunters as well. The deeper they are in the woods, the less the chance of someone blazing away at anything that moves and the neater the camps. Anyone who is willing to haul venison out a few miles without an ATV, and work a little at actually tracking the game has a good work ethic. In the long run, I find that it is the work ethic that is often the best measure of a person.

What happens with the float planes is often it allows people who are unwilling to put in the effort required to get into the remote places. They seem to be the ones who "squat" (Grab the campsite and fill it with gear and consider it "theirs"). They are the ones who seem to be abl;e to enjoy the sounds of the wilderness only when it is augmented by loud music from a boom box, and enjoy their solitude only when accompanied by a number of like minded slobs. So it's the ability to get into remote places without actually having had to work at it that creates the problem.

What is needed is for the Rangers to be able to patrol these "trouble" spots but with the manpower and budget being what it is, there's little chance of that.

Understand that in this case I am talking about places that although remote are reasonably easy to get to by trail or even a decent bushwhack. And I'm talking about the Adirondacks. Once you get into some REAL remote places, as in Alaska and some places ion the west, the only way in is by plane. In that case everyone pretty much flies in and it's a mix. You have the considerate respectful people and you have the others.

So it You're reading this and you routinely fly into some remote, pristine places in Alaska (And I'm envious BTW), I'm not calling you a slob. (Necessarily)

Hawk

[TheNatrix]

It's almost as paradox, but it seems as if those who seek solitude the most are also those who are willing to share it (as in lean-to or campsite).


Hawk

Nice line....

Well said.