History of Lake Pleasant/Speculator are

[Dick]

Hi Harvey,

Have you tried the New York Folklore Quarterly? First article in this volume is about Pants Lawrence.

Dick

[redhawk]

Hi Harvey,

Have you tried the New York Folklore Quarterly? First article in this volume is about Pants Lawrence.

Dick

Nice link Dick, never heard of the society. Ony $20 a year to join. Right up my alley, now if I can mug a little old lady for the $20.00

[redhawk]

Hi Harvey,

Have you tried the New York Folklore Quarterly? First article in this volume is about Pants Lawrence.

Dick

Nice link Dick, never heard of the society. Only $20 a year to join. Right up my alley, now if I can mug a little old lady for the $20.00

Unfortunately for Harvey the issue is sold out but I see you can order a pdf. Ain't technology grand..... (oop's, that's another thread)

[Dick]

Nice link Dick, never heard of the society. Only $20 a year to join. Right up my alley, now if I can mug a little old lady for the $20.00

Unfortunately for Harvey the issue is sold out but I see you can order a pdf. Ain't technology grand..... (oop's, that's another thread)

And libraries and museums may have it.

[harvey]

Dick---
Thanks a million. I ordered the PDF.

As mentioned on another part of the forum, does anyone know where Charlie Johns is buried or if he had family? Dean Lane, current owner of the store, doesn't know.

How about Mrs. Amy Slack Earley--anybody remember her? As postmistress for many, many years, she knew everybody in town by first name. No boxes in those days and you didn't have to ask for your mail. When you strolled up to the window (in the south end of Charlie Johns store) she had it ready for you. Everybody knew everybody in those days as we all chatted while waiting for the Northville (and points south) mail truck that arrived at 3pm. We didn't need a newspaper! I loved those people, nothing like it today! Some people called us wood hicks back then. I'd much rather be a wood hick than a self-centered NYC tourist!!!

If anybody needed something everybody would pitch in. After Arthur Tefft, the photographer died, his wife Lila continued the business in their studio over Gene Green's garage. When the garage burned down, the whole town took up a collection and bought Lila a house trailer to live in, and the women would bring over food. They took care of her until she finally passed away.
That was the spirit of Speculator.

Also trying to get info on Halsey Page, guide/forest ranger. To me as a kid he was 'The Lone Ranger'---handsome and daring!

[harvey]

To Trouthunter---

Do you have a picture of your camping days at Deerfoot Lodge? Or just 'Now & Then' pics and hopefully your permission to include your story in the "Camper Tales and Local Lore" booklet I'm working on???

I look forward to hearing from you.
Harv

[harvey]

MINING???

Another section of this forum requests info on mining. Does anyone have old maps that might show where the mines were in Lake Pleasant area? I know there is one on the back of the Doug Mtns, but can't find it. Also on Speculator Mtn. I believe that's how Speculator got its name, fromsilver speculators. Formerly (until 1898) the junction of Rt. 30 and Rt. 8 and the beginning of the old military road past the Sturges House up Page Hill and on to Indian Lake, was Newtons Corners (property of an early landowner).

[harvey]

Something's goofy here. Thought I posted it twice and it is not here. Will try again and my 'edit note' was to thank Red Hawk also.

Can't seem to reach you personally Dick, so will post my thanks. To others, he supplied a number of good websites for history.

Thanks a million Dick. I will follow up on these websites tomorrow. Just today received the PDF purchased from NY Folklore Society on Pants Lawrence (and thanks Pondhopper also). He spun some great tall tales! Heard he was a trainer of Gene Tunney. This says he was Gene's guide (more logical). He was also certified as the #l Adirondack Liar (with a plaque in Osborne's Inn.). He actually WAS adk certified state guide #1. Wore hand me down pants from his father (very poor). Way too big. That's how he got his name. But he eventually became mayor of Speculator. Don't know the year and if it was 'honorary' perhaps. Still searching! Thanks again. Harvey

[DigitalNY]

I've heard a couple references to the origin of Speculator being in silver mining and don't personally see much evidence of a connection there. I suppose it's possible that the name comes from the number of speculators that came looking for silver but if it was silver they were indeed searching for I don't see much evidence of them being successful.

Areas that have had silver mined are typically well known to the local residents and for years after a mine closing there's usually evidence of the mines and their associated structures. (furnaces and the like)

You've got my curiosity peaked enough that I'll stop by the college and get some silver reagent before the next time I head to the area. If I find silver in "them thar hills" I'll let ya know.

DigitalNY (Ric)

[harvey]

To Dick: Your email doesn't work! Anyway, thanks for editing redundant messages.

Rhinelander mansion. Continuing research, need help! Found that Phillip Rhinelander build the Elm Lake mansion for his wife about 1810- the date of his marriage to Mary Colden Hoffman (age 14). Cultivated 300 acres and had many slaves and servants. One was killed for talking with his wife. She was a 'prisoner' in the mansion and died 8 yrs later. The house was haunted with her presence after that (according to Rhinelander) and he deserted the place. It was taken care of for a few years by caretakers and then was ransacked for the furniture, antiques and art. It burned to the ground (date?) and now all that remains are a few concrete blocks from the foundation (explored it last summer).

To DigitalNY re: MINING in Speculator area, the following was found in ancestry.com: "In the 1700s, large force french troops abandoned much supplies and a cannon with gold payroll was pushed into swamp near the road along cannon brook which flows into jessup river at the beginning of indian lake near dug mountain,,locals have seen cannon through the years..........several recoveries have been made along old military road around whitaker lake outlet and cannon brook and around the old silver mines in area including a solid gold set of flatware,,,,,,,,,,,,silver mine between silver and hatchery brooks near a notch in dug mountain,,,,,,,,,gold mine east of spruce lake not many feet off the northville- lake placid trail"

There is talk of a silver mine shaft on the back of one of the Doug Mtns., as mentioned before. If anyone knows the trail, please let me know. Also is the 'Old Military Road' the same as the original dirt 'Indian Lake Road'?

[redhawk]

Also is the 'Old Military Road' the same as the original dirt 'Indian Lake Road'?

Harvey, I have been trying to get info on that Old Military Road as well. There have been references to a road by that name in several different things i have read about Southern Hamilton County. I suspect that t may have started down in Fulton County and have been flooded on that end when the Great Sacandaga Reservoir was created. During periods of low water, if you travel Old Northville Road, at a few points what seems to have been a dirt road possibly paralleling the ONR. I have read references to it in some of Wells history and at one time I thought that it may have extended beyond Whitehouse up to Piseco. I'm sure I was wrong, but it is a mystery. It might even be possible that Gilmantown Road was a leg of it at one time, which would make some sense since it cuts back to Route's 30 & 8 in Speculator. That would also put it in the vicinity of Speculator Mountain since the the road it intersects runs around the back side of Lake Pleasant coming out by the County Sheriff and Courthouse in Lake Pleasant.

[harvey]

Old Military Road

To Redhawk (and other history buffs),

The Old Military Road is shown on the map in Aber & King’s History of Hamilton County, Map of Lake Pleasant 1821. It is marked ‘Old Military Road of 1812’ north of Speculator, but there is no indication of whether it heads south beyond Speculator towards Northville. It appears to follow the Indian Lake road north (although that is said to have been cleared in 1840) up to about Perkins clearing where it fades out on the map. A section of “Old Military Road” however is shown on the 1954 Top map from the Miami River (just west of Perkins Clearing), northwest between Page and Pillsbury Mtns, going up toward Canada Lakes. Surprisingly, it is NOT so marked the 1902 US Top map. Go figure!

I remember as a kid seeing the Northville to Wells road under the present Sacandaga reservoir. It is logical, as you mentioned, that the Military Road went from Northville (the ‘end of civilization’ so to speak, in the 1700’s) on up to Canada, but I can see no reference to it on Top maps either north or south of the Indian Lake quadrangle. Can anybody solve the mystery?

[Dowser]

To Redhawk (and other history buffs),

The Old Military Road is shown on the map in Aber & King’s History of Hamilton County, Map of Lake Pleasant 1821. It is marked ‘Old Military Road of 1812’ north of Speculator, but there is no indication of whether it heads south beyond Speculator towards Northville. It appears to follow the Indian Lake road north (although that is said to have been cleared in 1840) up to about Perkins clearing where it fades out on the map. A section of “Old Military Road” however is shown on the 1954 Top map from the Miami River (just west of Perkins Clearing), northwest between Page and Pillsbury Mtns, going up toward Canada Lakes. Surprisingly, it is NOT so marked the 1902 US Top map. Go figure!

As far as I know the 1902 Topo maps (some of them surveyed in 1892 and updated) were walked survey maps, I’ve seen some of the surveyors notes. (BTW, there were lots of mistakes and omissions) The later 1954 topo maps were made from arial photographs and walking surveyors. Maybe some of the Old Military Rd. appeared in a arial photograph, was identified and used to make the later map which indicates it was visible for the 1954 survey.

[Pete N]

For Lake Pleasant history, contact Paul Wilber, the town historian. Also you could visit Jack Leadley.

Speculator as I recall was named because of land speculators, not miners. I think this is stated somewhere in the History of Hamilton County.

I believe the old military road followed what is now the Jessup River Road for a ways, then went up through West Canada Lakes.

I also heard a story a number of years ago the the reason French Louie went to West Canada Lakes was that troops retreating to Canada along that route abandoned a load of "treasure" somewhere in the vicinity, and French Louie was looking for it. This may be a version of the story on ancestry.com you mentioned, but with a slightly different location.

[harvey]

Speculator area and camping

Back into Speculator history again after long absence. Just sent the following to someone with an interest in the Sturges House. Others of you might find this of interest. It is a few pages from the history of the area I am working on (all contributions eagerly accepted!).

Sturges House, the pride of Speculator: Sturges House was the main hostelry in town (see photo). It was built in 1858 by David Sturges, an enterprising young hunting guide, on property owned by his brother Aaron’s wife’s family, at Newton’s Corners (the junction of Rts. 8 & 30, which became Speculator in 1896). For over 80 years the Sturges House was one of the most famous resorts in the Adirondacks. It was the ‘in spot’ for hunters in the fall, skiers in the winter and affluent vacationers in the summer. The 1872 ‘Guide to the Adirondacks’ stated, “The Sturges House is most agreeably located. Visitors, including ladies as well as gentlemen, will find a few weeks summer tarry rendered exceedingly enjoyable”. Dave Sturges died in 1920 at 88 and his wife Ida sold the hotel to Mrs. Mildred Magee in 1924. She ran it with her son Andrew until the historic building was destroyed by fire on September 30, 1942. The Annex still exists across the street. It was sold to the Osbornes (of Osborne Inn) and operated as Oak Mountain Lodge for many years until purchased by Frank Zeiser in 1970. Since then it has been known as Zeiser’s Hotel & Restaurant.

Sturges House was important to Deerfooters as it was the summer office of Deerfoot Lodge throughout the 30’s, and until a month before the fire. It was also our final rally point before storming the woods! Parents usually stayed overnight after dropping off their boys and then headed home the next day. Deerfoot kept a large room in the attic for arriving and departing campers and counselors, known as the ‘crow’s nest’. It was accessed by rickety ladder type stairs, so it was wise to take care of your ablutions down a long hall at the floor three bathroom, before retiring for good to the attic. Our large, sloped-ceiling room was minimally equipped with a number of folding cots, a few coat racks and one ugly dresser topped with the traditional huge white china water pitcher and bowl, but it was clean and neat. It was fine for campers, and very welcome after the long and arduous trip. Moms and dads stayed downstairs in more luxurious accommodations!

The interior of the Sturges House was charmingly rustic, early Hunter style. A stuffed big black bear greeted you on entrance to the large lobby and the nearest wall was covered with deer hoofs with the ‘ankle’ bent up, for hanging coats and hats. A massive stone fireplace dominated the opposite wall while deer and moose heads adorned the other walls, interspersed with white birch bark trimmed pictures of Gene Tunney, Max Schmelling, Max Baehr and other famed boxers who trained in Speculator, along with pictures of skaters in the 1932 Olympics, local ice hockey teams and hunters and fishermen beside their trophies. Rustic revolving racks held postcards of local scenery including Lake Pleasant, the Sacandaga River, Lake Piseco, Moffitt’s Beach, Camp- of-the-Woods and Deerfoot Lodge, all beautifully captured by Arthur Tefft, the well known town photographer. Hate to admit---we kids called him Mr. Theft as his real photo postcards (although legitimately priced) were too expensive for us on our meager 5 or 10 cent/day allowance. Nobody seems to remember his face as he always had that big black hood over his head, and five legs below (his and the tripod). Fragrant miniature balsam pillows, U.S. topographical maps (for hikers and hunters), locally made spruce gum and maple sugar candy, along with little birch bark canoes and other Speculator souvenirs, were all on sale at the registration counter.

In the large dining room the squeaky but beautiful floor was wide planks of locally milled walnut, birch, hickory, beech and maple in their natural colors. The chandeliers were hand made of deer antlers and the tables were highly polished, naturally shaped hardwood slabs cut from tree trunks, about 3 inches thick and 3 to 4 feet in diameter, supported on actual spreading white birch tree roots, cut to table height.

The grounds keeping catered to the summer elite with croquette wickets on the extended lawn, clay tennis courts and chaise lounges. Early history says, “David Sturges, the co-owner, would often have to be reminded (and then loudly called) as he would tarry long into the dinner hour bent on defeating a guest at croquette”. Balconies surrounded all three floors of the building. There were perhaps 60 or 70 Adirondack style rocking chairs on these verandas, from which guests could either watch the action or just sit and rock.

New campers were usually driven up to Speculator by their parents. After their long trip they would arrive about supper time, too late for the boys to hike through the woods. Returning, more adventurous campers would take the train from NYC to Fonda or Gloversville where they were picked up by Clyde Elliott’s ‘Deerfoot taxi’ (a dual-wheeled covered dump truck with wooden benches in the back). They would arrive about the same time at the Sturges House, so we would all have dinner together and get to bed early in preparation for the big day ahead.

In the morning we would all enjoy a hearty lumberjack breakfast of venison steak, eggs, pancakes (with local maple syrup and a big slab of freshly churned butter), real (fresh squeezed) orange juice and strong coffee. Parents would then head back home (after tearful goodbyes).

Indian Lake Road: After a ‘head count’ and a last minute stop at Charlie John’s general store and post office for supplies and the mail, and Stanley Schoonmakers drug store for bug juice (citronella) and flashlight batteries, the campers were gathered together with their gear for transportation over 4 1/2 miles of dirt road up old Rt. 10 (Indian Lake Road) to our ‘trailhead’. The weather determined if you were to be covered with either mud or dust! The first challenge was the treacherous ascent of Page Hill (since bypassed by the sanitized, leveled and wimpy Route 30). Page Hill was named for its residents—several generations of hardworking squatters and lumberjacks. This was the difficult depression years and when there was no lumbering there was no money. People lived off the land, often existing on fish they could catch and animals they could hunt. Hard times were the rule. Most local folks lived in little shacks on property littered with dismantled cars, broken toys, brush piles and firewood (the only source of heat in bitter winters. Very few homes had electricity and the dirt roads were often washed out by heavy rains.

Getting up Page Hill required both dexterity in driving and a strong engine to reach the top. With all but the biggest, most expensive cars, we had to get out and walk the last 100 yards or so, as they couldn’t make it fully loaded. I remember driving our ’38 Ford V8 woody station wagon (contributed by the Lane family) up backwards as reverse gear was more powerful than first gear. This gave you a gorgeous view of Lake Pleasant if you dared take your eyes off the road to look forward!

Indian Lake Road during the day could be dangerous, with loaded lumber trucks hogging the single lane. You had to blow your horn before each bend to warn both deer and oncoming loggers. One party would then have to
back up on a level part of the road bank (not easy to find) and let the other car or truck pass. It was safer to drive at night (no lumber trucks and you could see headlights approaching from a distance). Once past the old
Fish Hatchery, we knew we were half way there. Another two miles and about 100 feet past Whiskey Brook on the right (the last marker) was our unmarked trailhead. Turning in here, you would go about 50 yards off Indian
Lake Road (purposely out of sight of the road), to a cleared space for about 5 or 6 cars. That was as far as cars could venture. Even though somewhat hidden, parking here still had its perils, as gas was rationed back then and it was often siphoned from tanks. In addition, bullet holes were common and car batteries occasionally disappeared.

We unloaded everything here and got ready for the 2 ½ mile hike into camp. The youngest campers could throw their gear on the horse drawn wagon, along with the camp supplies. The rest of us (only wimps didn’t carry their load), pulled out our trusty sheath knives to cut a sapling for a walking stick, needed for balance while walking across narrow logs that spanned huge mud puddles. Even jumping over smaller puddles while fully loaded and with a fishing pole in your other hand was a challenge. We donned our packs, blanket rolls and fishing gear and headed out for our first fearless adventure into the deep Adirondack woods!

The mini-lakes always had their resident hop toads, frogs and salamanders. Someone usually had a coffee can to rescue a few. If you didn’t, a chest pocket would serve. After about a mile and a half, we finally got to the ‘right-of- way’ and would take off our packs for a short rest, as that was just past the half-way point. The ‘right-of-way’ was a wide clearing where all the timber had been cut, preparing for a new 20 mile highway from Speculator to Indian Lake. This was the only dry part of the trail, as with all the trees down the sun got through. *This was started in 1932 by the W.P.A. (Works Project Administration) under FDR to give locals work so they could feed their families, and then abandoned for many years. Here we would sit on a log, sing a few choruses, tell a joke, have a drink of water and then resume the remaining mile or so of jumping puddles.

We often would see ole Dan’l Page (don’t call him Daniel) with his pipe and big shotgun (almost as long as he was), walking along the trail. He was caretaker at the Dug Mountain Ponds cabins in the 30’s and 40’s (our trail continues on around and behind the Dug Mountains to those cabins). He was short, bearded, hunched over and cross-eyed and seemed rather menacing and scary to us little kids with his big gun, but he never bothered anyone. He was actually a friendly old-timer, just out looking for a little meat for dinner. Although tiring for us kids, the long hike was always amply rewarded as we rounded the last bend and suddenly saw Old Hardwood through the woods, and then a moment later on entering the clearing we witnessed once again---the magnificent, awe inspiring sight of Whitaker Lake and the Dug Mountains. We made it---everything was now OK!