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Leather boot care?

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  • Leather boot care?

    What is recommended for waterproofing non-Goretex leather boots, while maintaining breathability?

    I am breaking in a pair of Asolo 535's, which do not have Gore-tex.

    In the past I have used Snoseal (beeswax) for my Merrell Wilderness boots (all leather), but breathability was poor. It did waterproof well though.

    Is Limmer boot grease a good choice?

  • #2
    I use Nikwax roll on waterproofing, it is water based and absorbs into the leather rather than forming a layer on the top. you can tell when you have applied enough once the leather wont absorb anymore and it starts to bead on the surface.

    Nikwax is a little hard to find, but I have read that if you use SnoSeal it will be difficult to have your boots re-soled once they are worn out.

    It would also be a good idea to use Lexol leather conditioner every once in a while to keep the leather supple.

    If you decide to use a polish, definitely go with cream instead of paste. Unless you actually remove the old paste before each polish it will build up on the surface trapping dirt and keeping the leather from breathing properly.


    • #3
      Limners are still made with the attitude that good boots are a long term investment.

      I use their boot grease. I never expect to buy another pair of leather boots...ever.


      • #4
        I also have Limmer boots. Limmers are known for making individualized custom made boots. Mine are the best fitting, most comfortable, and longest lasting boots I have ever had. I use only Limmer Grease on my Limmers, and I also use it on a pair of well used leather Asolo hiking boots. In both cases the waterproofing lasts longer than anything else I have ever used.
        [I]"Now I see the secret of making the best person, it is to grow in the open air and to eat and sleep with the earth." -Walt Whitman[/I]


        • #5
          I have had good results with "McNett Revivex leather gel water repellent and conditioner". It waterproofs and holds up well to use. Looks like it is a silicone oil composition.


          • #6
            Originally posted by yellowcanoe View Post
            I never expect to buy another pair of leather boots...ever.
            Me neither! Sorry couldn't resist.

            Troy, I'm not sure you'll find leather very breathable no matter whats on it, atleast I didn't and yeah I used to wear boots a lot actually.
            :eek:[I]Shoes not required[/I]:p

            [COLOR="Red"]44[/COLOR]/[COLOR="Blue"]46[/COLOR] Almost there!
            [COLOR="Red"]26[/COLOR]/[COLOR="Blue"]46[/COLOR] barefoot
            ADK Black River Chapter


            • #7
              Originally posted by Adirondackiteer View Post
              Me neither! Sorry couldn't resist.

              Troy, I'm not sure you'll find leather very breathable no matter whats on it, atleast I didn't and yeah I used to wear boots a lot actually.

              ? Its a lot more breathable than synthetics used in many shoes nowadays..


              • #8
                I ordered some Limmer boot grease.

                I also received the below information direct from Asolo...

                FITTING YOUR NEW BOOTS:
                First, put on the socks you will be wearing with your boots. Some people prefer a lightweight wicking liner sock made of wool, polypropylene, coolmax, or silk, followed by a mid to heavy wool or wool blend. However, some newer wool and synthetic socks can be used by themselves without a liner.
                Second, put your foot in the boot. With the boots unlaced, push your toes forward until they are up against the front of the boot. Then slide your index finger behind your heel. It should fit snugly; if it is difficult or impossible, then the boots are too short. If there is wiggle room they are most likely too large.
                Third, tap your heel back into the heel cup - you should always do this before lacing your boots. Lace the boots up snugly, going from bottom to top. Standing on a store boot ramp or the tip of a stair facing up, your heel should not lift much more than ΒΌ inch. If there is excessive heel lift, the boot is too long or too wide and you will end up with heel blisters. Your boots should feel snug (but not constricting or painful) in the balls of your feet and ankles since these areas are where the boots will break in.
                Finally, check the toes by kicking on them or by walking down an incline. Your toes should not jam against the front of the boot or you will lose a bruised toenail. You may feel slight brush on the impact but not a sharp stab. If this happens, try lacing your boots tighter over the instep. If this does not fix the problem, then the boots are too short or too wide.
                One rule of thumb is if the boots do not feel comfortable out of the box, they are not going to fit in the long run. While a good fitting boot will break in and become more comfortable, no amount of break in time will make an uncomfortable, constricting or painful boot comfortable.

                CARING FOR YOUR NEW BOOTS:
                Nikwax, Grangers, and Revivex brands all make cleaners, conditioners and waterproofing specifically designed for modern hiking boots. Using the wrong waterproofing can damage or soften the leather, prematurely delaminate the soles, and voids the warranty.
                The most important part of caring for your boot is keeping them clean and dry. After a trip, wash the boots using lukewarm water (never hot); scrub them with hiking boot cleanser, and rinse.
                After cleaning, allow your boots to dry at room temperature. NEVER expose them to direct heat; this will damage or ruin the boots by causing sole delamination, damaging the seams, and melting the cement. This applies on the trail as well. Never dry boots by a campfire. Also, try not to let your boots freeze when they are wet since this can also damage the boots. Never store your boots wet.