How sharp the axe?

[Neil]

I bet I have chopped enough wood to heat Madison Square Garden for an entire winter but was just thinking that I don't really know what the best degree of axe blade sharpness is for splitting wood. My understanding is that too sharp and too dull (duh!) are both not good. This week I'll be splitting a bunch of dead and dry wood. Probably cedar and maybe some pine. Any thoughts much appreciated. (I do believe Gary knows a thing or two about axes.)

[NukedRocket]

(I do believe Gary knows a thing or two about axes.)

He's especially knowledgeable in how to hit yourself in the head with one.

[Neil]

He's especially knowledgeable in how to hit yourself in the head with one.

LMAO! but....

I think I can figure out how to do that. That could give me a splitting headache which is something I'm not sure I could handle.

[lumberzac]

Don't use an axe to split wood, use a splitting maul. An axe head is generally not heavy enough to be as effective.

[Wldrns]

Don't use an axe to split wood, use a splitting maul. An axe head is generally not heavy enough to be as effective.

My dad taught me how to give the axe head just the right little flip, "to put some english on it", as it enters the wood to make it split easier than just a straight power swing. But then he built his own gas engine splitter, which I have now. It works a whole lot better.

[lumberzac]

But then he built his own gas engine splitter, which I have now. It works a whole lot better.

I can't argue with that.

[Neil]

The utensil in question will not only be powered by raw human muscle power (raw power, not raw human) but it will be dragged on a sleigh (sleigh = sled) and so weight is a consideration. I have decided that I want the axe to be moderately sharp. Not sharp enough to shave or perform surgery with. Just this sort of thing.

A guy looking for some pain relief walked into my clinic yesterday with an axe buried deep in his skull. I told him not to worry, that the problem was all in his head.

[Wildernessphoto]

The utensil in question will not only be powered by raw human muscle power (raw power, not raw human) but it will be dragged on a sleigh (sleigh = sled) and so weight is a consideration. I have decided that I want the axe to be moderately sharp. Not sharp enough to shave or perform surgery with. Just this sort of thing.

A guy looking for some pain relief walked into my clinic yesterday with an axe buried deep in his skull. I told him not to worry, that the problem was all in his head.

Hi Neil!
Yup...Hitting yourself in the head with your axe is an art, you shouldn't try it at home!
Splitting mauls are designed to swing straight down on the end grain and the wedge shape of the maul drives the two pieces apart.

Wldrns has it right...To split with an ax is more technique then anything else. You twist the head on impact, and that action opens the wood up. if it's done correctly, the wood will split, or the ax head will bounce, and not stick...It's an art, and a lost art at that...
The same technique is true with chopping,(but you want it razor sharp because your cutting across the grain of the wood) the twist pops the chips right out, and keeps you from sticking your ax.
I'll have to show you sometime. It's not something you can describe well. You have to see it done, and then practice...Just like hitting yourself in the head...It's practice, practice, practice!!
...

[Judgeh]

Yup. Gary is the expert in these sort of things.

[Wildernessphoto]

Hi Neil!
Yup...Hitting yourself in the head with your axe is an art, you shouldn't try it at home!
Splitting mauls are designed to swing straight down on the end grain and the wedge shape of the maul drives the two pieces apart.

Wldrns has it right...To split with an ax is more technique then anything else. You twist the head on impact, and that action opens the wood up. if it's done correctly, the wood will split, or the ax head will bounce, and not stick...It's an art, and a lost art at that...
The same technique is true with chopping,(but you want it razor sharp because your cutting across the grain of the wood) the twist pops the chips right out, and keeps you from sticking your ax.
I'll have to show you sometime. It's not something you can describe well. You have to see it done, and then practice...Just like hitting yourself in the head...It's practice, practice, practice!!
...

I might add that a double bit ax works great for both jobs you sharpen one face razor sharp for chopping, you then make the other side moderately sharp for splitting.
...and make sure you are using the moderately sharp edge on your head...
Cold river bob has a nice 2.5lb double bit that works great for cutting, splitting, and carrying...It's a good combo.

[dog]

To start : http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/wedge_%...ical_device%29
And manually , manually , manually ...

[Cold River Bob]

I agree with Judgeh Gary is a expert on that.

A double bit is all I use most of the time to splite wood, And I splite a lot of it.

[Cold River Bob]

Neil
I sharpen my axes with a file, then I take a stone and finish them to a razor edge, My axe I use for spliting I only sharped one side.

For camping I take a single bit that has a razor edge, I also take a small stone to touch it up if I need to.

[Neil]

This is what we will be using to split wood.

[Neil]

And this is what we want to practice, right Gary?