crampons and Marcy... jan 15th-ish

[llawhsoj]

Hey there guys, I'm coming up with some friends to play in the daks this Jan and we are in the midst of discussing crampons and ice axes, if we'll need them if we won't.

We are planning on camping at bushnell falls, doing Marcy and some other peaks in the area, maybe gothics, armostrong, and some through there. Anyway, I don't think we are going to be going off trail (intentionally) and am curious if we'll need crampon's on Marcy (and some of my buddies are just looking for a reason to by an axe)?

I also read some reports from folks who felt fine in the MSR lightening's for snowshoes and did Marcy in those, and specific reflection there? Thanks!

[oldsmores]

There's been a lot of discussion both here and on VFTT about the necessity for crampons, and heated discussion about the necessity of an axe. I would say that on Marcy neither are absolutely required, particularly if you have snowshoes with agressive crampons (e.g., MSR's). Both are nice to have. If I had to choose one or the other, I'd get crampons.

[Mavs00]

I wouldn't bother with the ice axe and I would absolutly brings the crampons, in addition to snowshoes (with agressive snowshoes).

[percious]

Last year I was up on Marcy that same week, and I would say BOTH were required on that day. The risk of a fall with no self arrest was great. The summit was covered in "styrofoam" ice, which made the going somewhat risky. I was glad to have axe in hand.

Expect that particular route to be snowed in. You will have to take turns breaking the trail.

I may also suggest that you service your stove before heading out, with special attention to lubing your pump seal. Two years ago we had to turn back at bushnell falls because we had multiple stove failure. It was -30*F that night.

-percious

[Mavs00]

As for required or not required....... I'd have to say on any given day winter day, your likely to be fine with Crampons and Snowshoes. As for and axe, perhaps you'd feel comfortable with one, perhaps not.

For me though, it's more of a balance. It's LOW-ANGLE all the way and I've know the basics of self arrest with a hiking pole (obviously not nearly as effect as with an axe, but likely to be fine for most of that hike anyway). So it becomes a matter of balancing. You're not exactly going up the "trade route" and there a chance you're gonna be breaking out at least SOME of the way. If so, Is it really worth carrying the extra weight of the axe (and the extra fatigue that goes with it so that you have it for the upper 200 vertical feet of the peak. For Marcy, and ME, I would say no. If I was expecting something a little steeper or angled (say, like the cliffs on Saddleback, I might answer differently). I personally would save the money.

But if your looking for an excuse to buy one, then you could justify it for this I suppose, but I still wouldn't call it required. Crampons and Snowshoes OTOH I would say are definite required items. The upper cone, while not outrageously steep, will almost certainly prevent safe passage above without one and/or both of them.

[percious]

For me though, it's more of a balance. It's LOW-ANGLE all the way and I've know the basics of self arrest with a hiking pole (obviously not nearly as effect as with an axe, but likely to be fine for most of that hike anyway). So it becomes a matter of balancing.

I would agree it is low-angle on the trail itself, but if it is icey, and you end up sliding off-trail, you could head to the eastern side of Marcy, which is a huge bowl. Last year I was looking into it thinking, just don't slip here and you will be OK. A fall on ice into the bowl would mean broken bones at best. Best to check the weather reports on VFTT to see what kind of terrain you are dealing with on-top before heading out. I would say if it is snowed in, or patchy ice, you will not need an Axe.

-percious

[Skyclimber]

I have successfully climbed Marcy five times in Winter, in all kinds of weather and conditions. An ice axe is not needed. Like Mavs says, ski pole, crampons and snowshoes are the essentials for this trip.

An ice axe is not needed on any of the High Peaks in Winter. I have one, braught it along on a couple of hikes. Then realized, I was only carrying extra weight and now it is hanging on my front porch and is used for chopping the ice off my front steps in Winter! Then it is used as a decoration for the other months.

[Willie]

An ice axe is not needed on any of the High Peaks in Winter. I have one, ... and now it is hanging on my front porch and is used for chopping the ice off my front steps in Winter! Then it is used as a decoration for the other months.

The only time I carry my ice axe is when I walk down the crowded sidewalks on the "Magnificent Mile" (Michigan Ave.) in Chicago. The tourists, and the locals, part like the Red Sea.

[Kevin]

lol @ Willie

I bought an ice axe last year, never used it. Hiked several peaks last winter, including Marcy. Returned it to EMS.

[fvrwld]

I bought an ice axe last year and lost it the first time I brought it out

I then bought a Black Diamond Whippet. I love it! It replaces the top section of my trekking poles so I can't lose it and it is always in my hand. It probably isn't necessary but has come in handy in on a few winter hikes. I used it on my way up Sawteeth last week in an icy spot. It also makes a great brake while butt sliding...uh I mean glissading.

[Neil]

After accumulating my own experience and learning from the collective experience of friends and fellow board members here's my answer to whether crampons are necessary to do Marcy mid-jan.:

You might need them, then again, you might not.

There are four possibilities:
1-you don't have them and you don't need them.
2-you have them and don't need them.
3-you don't have them and you do need them.
4-you have them and you need them.

There you go.