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|09-03-2015, 04:54 PM||#1|
Resident Slide Junkie
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: ADK Mountains
Panther Gorge Climbing Resources – New Routes-Reports-Interactive Map-Photo Beta
Updated: 2017 Mar. 16
This thread includes a variety of personal resources gathered since 2009 and is a work in progress. I add to the map, mosaics and reports after each trip. The most recent route mosaic/line is featured at the bottom.
Where else can you go in New York that is so remote, rugged and beautiful? Surprisingly clean stone is the reward for an arduous approach. The most logical approach is from the Garden in Keene Valley which places the mileage between 8.5 and 9.5 miles to get to the base of a given route. As a dayhike, you’ll amass nearly 19 miles, 5,000 feet of elevation gain over 13-22 hours depending on conditions (yours and nature’s).
There are a total of 42 routes in Panther Gorge; 33 new routes have been added on Marcy and Haystack during the last few years including 6 ice climbing routes. Rock climbing routes range from 5.3 to 10a YDS with most falling between 5.7 and 5.9. Ice routes range between NEI2 and NEI5- with the majority of climbed routes in the 3-4 range. Locations vary with some of the best and longest rock climbing routes in the Huge Scoop (opened in 2015) and Agharta areas. The southernmost route on Mt. Marcy is on the East Face slab. The 10 new routes on the Haystack side include a fingercrack up a free-standing pillar at the north end (probably the one described by Orson Phelps when he guided S.R. Stoddard in the late 1800s) to an easy crack far to the south.
Descriptions are below. A few may be found in Adirondack Rock edition 2. All are listed on MountainProject.com and Adirondackrock.com (links below). The Secrets of Panther Gorge gives a little more information and describes the layout of the gorge via a walking tour, if you will. This is more from a bushwhacking than climbing perspective.
A few tips-stay out of the center of the drainage stream at the north end descending, allow at least 3-4 days of sunny weather before attempting a rock climb, don’t bother hitting the gorge until June unless you want to tangle with seepage and rotten snow, don’t fall in the man-eating holes between the moss-covered talus. The ice lines on the slab are generally south-facing and prone to delamination so early winter after a few days of overcast weather is optimal. This is more of a personal preference--you may want to climb in pants and bring tape, some of stone is razor sharp.
The following resources can also be found at adirondackmountaineering.com
Exploring Panther Gorge: Trip Reports (some w/Photos and Video)
Rather than add individual trip reports to this forum section, I’ve included links to each for those who are interested in a narration, photos and sometimes video.
Articles on Panther Gorge
Thanks to all the bushwhacking and climbing partners (a unique brotherhood) who have made the adventures a success over the years—Adam Crofoot, Bill Schneider, Anthony Seidita, Mark Lowell, Greg Kadlecik, Scott van Laer, Allison Rooney, Hunter Lombardi, Justin Thalheimer, Dan Plumley, Devin Farkas, Nolan Huther, Alan Wechsler, Dustin Ulrich, Loren Swears, John Pikus, Jaryn DeShane,Doug Ferguson, Walker Wolf Bockley, Matt Dobbs, Jace Mullen! Special thanks to Don Mellor and Jim Lawyer for their support and interest! Also thanks to my cousin Ed Tuttle for inspiring me to higher places!
Above, Adam Crofoot leads Pi Day-March 2015.
Below, PG Overview by MudRat & Jim Lawyer
Dance with the swords edge
and the dragon waives its tail.
Victory with grace.
Last edited by mudrat; 03-19-2017 at 10:53 PM.. Reason: added route 2017 March 10
|haystack, ice climbing, marcy, panther gorge, rock climbing|
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