Adirondack Forum  
Rules Membership Donations and Online Store Adkhighpeaks Foundation ADKhighpeaks Forums ADKhighpeaks Wiki Disclaimer

Go Back   Adirondack Forum > The Adirondack Forum > Rock/Ice Climbing in the Adirondacks
Register FAQ Members List Calendar Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
Old 07-08-2008, 10:40 AM   #1
Anita
Member
 
Anita's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Canada
Posts: 118
Chapel View arete

has anyone climbed this route up on the Tanager face? if so, what grade would you give it?
The new guidebook says 5.2 but we climbed it this weekend and it felt harder. That or we were terribly off route

Last edited by Anita; 07-08-2008 at 10:50 AM..
Anita is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-09-2008, 07:05 PM   #2
Dave B
Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Posts: 34
Hi Anita...

Hmmm...I have not climbed the route, but I've been poring over the new guidebook in anticipation of a trip up there late July/Early Aug.

Climbing used to rule my life, but now, with 3 kids, priorities have changed. I have done Tillman's arete a couple times, and I distinctly recall the 5.3 first pitch as being pretty simple. It's also very easy to find. If you've done that, and found it easy too, I'd say you were likely off-route on Chapel View.

You've also stumbled upon something kind of interesting. For a really good, comprehensive guidebook, there is no photo or topo of Chapel View Arete. That makes it easier to get off route. Sounds like about 140 feet right of tanager gully. If you go back, and figure out a correction, send Jim and Jeremy the info, and I'm sure they'd put it into the online corrections.

We'll be looking at Shipton's, Tillman's, NCCC, and lifelong affliction when we are up there. I'm hoping to get my six year old boy on the rock.


\Maybe we'll do chapel pond slab too.

Dave
Dave B is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-09-2008, 10:47 PM   #3
Anita
Member
 
Anita's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Canada
Posts: 118
hi Dave

we did the first pitch and a half of Tillman's last fall and I found the first pitch to be way easier than what I climbed on Chapel View.

the directions in the guidebook for Chapel View arre pretty good. we found Brightly Colored Males and the crappy gully - CV is a couple hundred feet to the right. oh well, I figure I was having a high gravity day.

we tried Shipton's on saturday but my partner took a fall and hit the deck. nice looking route though and great position right by the lake. NCCC is high on my list but it is always being hogged by people.

another nice spot with easier routes and no crowds is Sunshine City (Spanky's Wall area). might try to get back there this weekend.
Anita is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-10-2008, 01:05 PM   #4
Dave B
Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Posts: 34
"we tried Shipton's on saturday but my partner took a fall and hit the deck."

Holy Cow! Is he/she ok? That was another minor glitch I noticed in the new book (which I think is the best guidebook I've ever seen anywhwere).

Shipton's is listed at 5.4 G 120'...then the route description says, P1 PG 120'.

So, is it G or PG?

Ten years ago, I wouldn't have cared, as I was leading 5.10, and didn't hesitate much on 5.7 R or X. Now, I haven't climbed in five years, and haven't led in seven years. I don't doubt I can do the moves, but I don't want to sketch too bad on the long road back. I'd like to have some fun showing my son and the sons of some friends what "Uncle Dave" used to do.

Any feedback on the gear on Shipton's?
Dave B is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-10-2008, 06:13 PM   #5
Anita
Member
 
Anita's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Canada
Posts: 118
well other than a bruised ego and breaking our camera, my fiance was alright.
we forgot our nuts and smaller cams so he was trying to make something work on the first pitch. he got a little sketched out so put in 2 cams and decided to weight them. while doing this he took a photo and BING! the cams blew out and he came crashing down from about 12ft up, straight on his back.
I couldn't do much to break his fall but I quickly pulled in the rope to make sure he didn't slide down to the lake below which would have been quite messy with all the rocks/logs.

definitely bring small nuts/stoppers and smaller cams. there was a fair bit of dirt in the cracks which we cleaned but otherwise it looked really nice further up P1. I would like to get back on this route in the future so we will see.

we are crappy climbers so 5.4ish is our max. seems like everything feels harder in the Adirondacks though. climbing 5.10 is something I can't even fathom, considering how much I was sweating on Chapel View! yikes
Anita is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-10-2008, 06:30 PM   #6
Dave B
Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Posts: 34
Hi Anita...thanks for responding, and i'm glad everyone's OK.

"we are crappy climbers so 5.4ish is our max. seems like everything feels harder in the Adirondacks though."

Bah! Don't worry about numbers. 5.4-5.6 max is where I am now, I'm sure, at least for leading. Just keep having fun. Tell fiance, "don't take pictures until you are off belay!" Hopefully, it was a cheap lesson in proper cam placement.

The best stuff in the 'dacks (IMO) is multipitch. Once you guys get better at anchor building and stuff, go do "The Regular" at chapel pond slab. It's much less runout than anything else there, and seeing as it's not too steep, you won't get pumped out. You'll learn a lot about efficiency and routefinding, both on the way up, and the way down.

And don't worry, everything really IS harder in the 'dacks!

I'll be up there July 30-Aug 3rd, If you see a couple old guys with a few kids roping up, come over and say hi, maybe you could take a lap on our route, or vice versa!

Dave
Dave B is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-11-2008, 10:24 PM   #7
JClimbs
Callousedhand
 
JClimbs's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: SE Adks
Posts: 436
Glad to hear everyone is OK; yeah, don't forget the small stuff! I was on the "bolted section" of a route the other day that was bolted by someone quite a LOT taller than me...a few small and tenuous nuts got me within reach of the clips, but they weren't something I was going to test unless I had to.
If anyone is going by Crane Mtn., always feel free to ask the old guy wandering around about the climbing there!
JClimbs is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 09:01 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.4
Copyright ©2000 - 2019, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.

DISCLAIMER: Use of these forums, and information found herein, is at your own risk. Use of this site by members and non-members alike is only granted by the adkhighpeak.com administration provided the terms and conditions found in the FULL DISCLAIMER have been read. Continued use of this site implies that you have read, understood and agree to the terms and conditions of this site. Any questions can be directed to the Administrator of this site.