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Old 10-06-2007, 07:03 PM   #10
JClimbs
Callousedhand
 
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Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: SE Adks
Posts: 436
Better yet, OPPOSE your placements! Any pc. that will be subjected to more than single-vector force should be opposed.
Don't cheat the length of your runners, either. While your falls may be slightly longer, your successes will be greater, rope drag rare, and rope wear reduced hugely. I watched two guys at the Gunks Thursday literally lock their rope up, stuck tight as a drum. Fortunately, the leader had managed to pull enough rope to drop the other end down to the follower so he could climb up on that end. The whole problem was due to short, modern-style quickdraws under a small overhang at a dogleg-left in the route. The rope, running tightly left under the 'hang then abruptly back upward was rubbing harshly against the rock and finally just plain stuck. On an alpine ascent, or a bit farther apart, the same mistake could have been tragic.
Again, give me a call if you're interested in heading up some climbs on Crane, Huckleberry, Shanty, or any other nearby crag!
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